RCFS
How Ethiopia's Apparel Sector is Combatting AGOA Uncertainty: Fashion's Next Sourcing Hub
Made in Ethiopia collection by Afropian: A play on words between Ethiopian and African, Afropian is a lifestyle brand based in Addis Ababa that focuses on telling a story of African excellence, by Africans for the world. Though it is strongly centered on Ethiopia, it is a journey across the whole continent and its History.
During an exclusive side chat at Source Fashion in London, the president of Ethiopia's Hawassa Industrial Park Investors Association (HIPIA) Hibret Lemma, confesses Ethiopia is only just at the start of its shift away from relying solely on the US for its garment exports.
He admits losing AGOA was a big hit to the country's garment sector and it slowed down growth considerably. However, Ethiopia's garment suppliers were hopeful that AGOA would be reinstated by the end of 2022 and that hope continued again until the end of 2023.
The nation's apparel sector has now accepted the waiting game is set to continue, with even AGOA's existing members still waiting for the agreement to be extended beyond its 2025 expiry date.
Lemma states: "We're back to reality now so we’ve been looking at the Europe market for about a year but it’s still in the early stages." In fact, Lemma took part in a panel session at last summer's Source Fashion event where he explained why European fashion sourcing executives should consider tapping into Ethiopia's sourcing potential.
Ethiopia's main challenge since losing AGOA
In his one-on-one chat with Just Style, however, Lemma is much more frank about the challenges since losing AGOA. He notes the main problem for the Hawassa Industrial Park is that it was originally designed with the US fashion industry in mind.
It was built seven years ago with US fashion conglomerate PVH Corp as an anchor investor, so the factory lines were made for repetition and big volume orders. Ethiopia's manufacturers were not looking at other markets before the loss of AGOA so it meant cutting staff and employees having to go back to their rural homes.
Hawassa, which is still Ethiopia's biggest industrial garment factory park, had 4,500 employees at its peak. Since the end of the country's AGOA membership in 2022 this has dropped down to 3,000. For Lemma, losing staff due to war and economic issues was a major challenge and on top of that having less help from the government, due to it it having other priorities. He adds access to foreign currency has historically also been a problem, but that is getting better.
The silver lining is that most companies managed to stay at the park, despite some downscaling, but they are now looking for reasons to expand. Indeed, despite the loss of AGOA Lemma retorts proudly that only two companies have closed since 2021.
On the whole, Lemma believes the factories wanted to stay open, which shows the resilience and true long-term potential of Ethiopia's garment sector. Remarkably, some garment manufacturers are still working with the US market despite the extra costs of not having the AGOA advantage. Lemma suggests these companies have successfully mastered efficiencies such as discounts on transportation to make exporting to the US a profitable endeavour.
Arguably, the big lesson Ethiopia has learned after all this is not to rely on one market and one trade agreement, such as AGOA. It is the same lesson fashion retailers and brands learned during the COVID-19 pandemic when supply chain issues were rife. Diversification is key at both ends of the supply chain spectrum.
Ethiopian workers inside a clothing factory [PHOTO NT]
Pros and cons of exporting to Europe
There are still plenty of opportunities for Ethiopia's garment sector, however, Lemma accepts: "Adapting to the European market and fast fashion will require adjusting lines and having more agility, which takes time." He continues that styles and volume are different for European fashion brands and retailers so this is a challenge for its supply chain.
The French sporting brand Decathlon is namedropped as already sourcing from Ethiopia along with French department store Monoprix, which Lemma says shows the country does have some experience with the European market, but it's still at an infant stage from a scale point of view.
Just Style spoke to a number of Ethiopian garment suppliers while wandering around the responsible global fashion supplier trade show. Many of them were quick to cite Europe as their new target market. JP Textile Ethiopia's general manager Dick Sun noted that the UK announced duty-free benefits for Ethiopia last year, which is why he was keen to be at the London-based show.
However, Desta Garments PLC's general manager Eyob Bekele points out that Europe and the UK offer Ethiopia the same duty-free benefits as their Asian suppliers, so he views the likes of Bangladesh and Pakistan as real competition.
Bekele acknowledges that Ethiopia doesn’t have as much vertical sourcing, which makes it a challenge as Ethiopia has to buy materials from Asia, while also competing with the sourcing major continent on export price for its ready-made garments.
There is development in Ethiopia's cotton farms and companies are looking into backward integration in terms of developing the fabric, but it has to be sustainable, Bekele adds.
Lemma hopes verticality will be on the horizon for Ethiopia in the not too distant future. He stated: "We would love to see fabric mills and a ginning capacity. We also want our garment hub to be a leader in Africa. I hope in three or four years we will be a leader at least in sub-Saharan Africa".
For Bekele, sustainability is key as he points out that Europe in particular is looking for more sustainable options and higher quality fabrics. Plus, he agrees with Lemma that the US' consumer power is much bigger than Europe so his factory was not set up for the smaller volumes European brands and retailers are now requesting.
Demka Group's managing director Ayhan Demir explains his Turkish company opened an Ethiopia factory eight years ago. AGOA was a "big disappointment" and is the reason why his company has now "turned its face to Europe and the UK".
Demir shares UK retailers Matalan and Primark currently work with Demka Group's factory in Türkiye, but given the impact of the Red Sea crisis, he is hopeful the Ethiopia factory could become an attractive proposition for them moving forward.
Sumbiri Hela Intimate Apparel's general manager Ravi Jaya Thilaka also points out that Ethiopia is already producing highly technical garment products. He says his company has the first bra factory in East Africa which involves using high tech machinery. His factory has 3,000 employees and he is proud to say the workforce is trained and has a willingness to learn with potential for them to improve.
Ethiopian workers inside a clothing factory [PHOTO NT]
Will Africa be Ethiopia's next big opportunity?
Lemma describes Africa's consumer market as a real growth opportunity, but he notes you can't put a timeline on it as the free trade agreement for Ethiopia is not yet in operation. He is referring to the African Continental Free Trade Area Agreement (AfCFTA), which aims to create the largest free trade area in the world measured by the number of countries participating.
Ethiopia is yet to commence its trial but it is said to be making preparations with a view to diversifying its export products. Bekele believes that once the trade agreement is in operation the duty-free benefits will give Ethiopia a big opportunity. He notes volume is also substantial in Africa but affordability has to be a key part of any African consumer push.
Ethiopian workers inside a clothing factory [PHOTO NT]
For Bekele, another arguably missed opportunity to date that would prevent both the amount of excess garment waste that enters the region as well as the chance to boost Ethiopia's sourcing potential locally is for global fashion brands and retailers to open stores in the continent.
Bekele believes there is demand for it as many Africans currently buy branded products when they travel to Europe so he asks: "Why are chains not opening in Africa?"
Hirdaramani Apparel's group marketing consultant Tharumal Wijesinghe agrees that Africa's potential is "huge".
He maintains it is beneficial for his multinational company to stay in Ethiopia as it gives European fashion brands and retailers the chance to expand their sourcing in the region for the time being. However, like so many of the other Ethiopian garment manufacturers exhibiting at Source Fashion, Wijesinghe has still got his fingers (and toes) crossed for AGOA and its huge US consumer market returning in the near future.
Article souce : GlobalData
Is Recycled Cotton Sustainable: What it is and All the Advantages of This Fabric?
“No new land is required in recycling cotton. We all know that cotton is a crop that requires vast amounts of land, often leading to habitat destruction and biodiversity loss. Recycled cotton reuses existing materials” Fashion and Textiles expert says
Cotton farming [PHOTO NT]
With increasing concern about the environmental impact of the fashion industry, more brands and consumers are looking for sustainable fabric alternatives. Recycled cotton has emerged as one promising eco-friendly option. But what exactly is recycled cotton and how does it stack up in terms of sustainability?
Over the years, an increasing focus on the theme of sustainability and environmental impact has revived ancient techniques of fabric recycling that were fading away. This is how recycled cotton is born.
Old and second hand clothes to be recycled [PHOTO NT]
ALSO READ: HOW FAR IS THE AFRICAN FASHION INDUSTRY? POTENTIAL, SUSTAINABILITY, AND CHALLENGES
Why does Cotton matter in the fashion industry?
Cotton is a natural and biodegradable fiber, and its traditional cultivation and harvesting practices require the extensive use of many resources and harmful inputs, such as the intensive use of hazardous pesticides. It is made from the natural fibers that grow in the bolls of the cotton plant.
Cotton ready to be harvested [PHOTO NT]
The fibers are basically cellulose polymers. The unique twisted, convolutions structure of cotton fibers gives cotton its special qualities like strength, absorbency, and breathability. Also, cotton is highly absorbent due to the presence of many hydroxyl groups in its cellulose molecules. This allows cotton to absorb and release moisture quickly. Cotton is an integral part of our everyday lives: it is the second most used fiber by the textile industry and is used across multiple categories of clothing, home textiles, and accessories. You might even be wearing something made of cotton right now. But have you ever stopped to consider whether this cotton is recycled? And if it were, would you be able to tell?
T-shirt made out of recycled cotton [PHOTO NT]
As the world becomes more and more aware of the textile waste crisis, and legislation coming into place to try to slow it down, it is important to understand the concepts within recycled cotton and the nuances you can come across.
People harvesting cotton [PHOTO NT]
According to fashion and textiles experts, there are many advantages of recycled cotton starting with the water usage in the process where it reduces water and energy use growing conventional cotton which is extremely water-intensive, with one kg of cotton requiring up to 20,000 liters of water. “Recycled cotton skips this agricultural stage, eliminating the tremendous water footprint. It also requires much less energy since there is no need for crop production and raw material processing” an Expert says
Cotton pieces to be recycled [PHOTO NT]
“When we recycle cotton fabrics and old clothes, it reduces waste and pollution an estimated 15% of fabric intended for clothing ends up as waste on the cutting room floor. Recycling captures this waste along with post-consumer cotton products and diverts it from landfills, incinerators, and the environmental pollution associated with them” Experts say
ALSO READ: AS EGYPT’S ECONOMY DIPS, SUSTAINABLE FASHION SOARS
Market Overview
The recycled cotton market comprises three main types: purified cotton, cotton blend, and others. Purified cotton refers to recycled cotton that has been extensively processed and refined to remove impurities, resulting in a high-quality and pure end product. Cotton blend involves the combination of recycled cotton with other fibers like polyester or viscose, leading to enhanced durability and functionality. The “others” category encompasses various recycled cotton products not falling under purified or blend types, such as mixed fiber textiles or innovative uses of recycled cotton in non-textile applications.
Sorting out different fabrics made of cotton to be recycled [PHOTO NT]
Recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 300,000 tons in 2022, accounting for approximately 1% of total cotton production worldwide. This contrasts deeply with the approximately 25 million tons of virgin cotton produced annually. However, the demand for recycled cotton is anticipated to increase in the coming years.
Sorting out different fabrics made of cotton to be recycled [PHOTO NT]
The Scaling for Circularity Report highlights that Bangladesh, one of the major textile manufacturing hubs globally, generates around 330,000 tons of post-industrial cotton waste annually. Currently, only 5-7% of this waste is recycled into new fiber, leaving a huge opportunity untapped to close the loop and increase the recycling of this category of products, instead of downcycling it, incinerating it, or sending it to landfill.
Recyled cotton [PHOTO NT]
As the demand for recycled cotton is predicted to grow, it is important for consumers and professionals of the fashion and textiles industry to understand the differences in cotton recycling methods.
The major cotton producers are China (with about 5 million tons/year), the United States (with 4 million tons/year), India (2.5 million tons/year), followed by Egypt, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Australia, Argentina, Brazil, Greece, Sub-Saharan Africa, and South America, each with smaller shares.
Clothes made out of recycled cotton [PHOTO NT]
Given such a low starting fiber value, it is evident that recycling represents an additional cost and not an economic advantage. Recycling costs more than intensively cultivating cotton, which benefits from economies of scale, and this should not be surprising. In the costs of textile recycling, one must always consider manual selection of scraps, color sorting, and the resulting industrial process.
Clothes made out of recycled cotton [PHOTO NT]
The choice to purchase recycled cotton garments cannot be dictated by price advantage but by the desire to change one's approach and try to reduce one's impact on the environment. As always, the most sustainable choice for the planet is not necessarily the most economical for those of us who inhabit it.
" We want to meet you in person while we discuss and shape together the future of our fashion industry most especially in the Modeling Sector. We’ve been waiting for this time to meet you and hear about what you are doing, and aiming to do and how better we can collaborate on the series of projects we have for models while we emphasize our recently announced Models Casting and the main Edition 2 of the biggest current Fashion Show in Rwanda" announcement by the Stage Fashion Showcase calling modeling agencies.
Announcement by SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
Sandrine Mucyo is a former model turned entrepreneur on a mission to bring cohesion to Rwanda's modeling industry through her STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE. However, her efforts have faced resistance from some agency leaders unwilling to collaborate. The STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE, now in its second year, aims to provide a platform for models from different agencies to come together and showcase their talents. Mucyo, the founder, believes this kind of unified event benefits the entire industry.
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
"When we work separately, it limits the opportunities for our models," Mucyo said. "By joining forces for events like the STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE, we can elevate Rwandan modeling and attract more brands and sponsors."
ALSO READ: The Stage Fashion Showcase: A Prestigious Fashion Show is Set to Premiere on October 14, 2023
However, getting agency leaders on board has proven difficult. Some have accused others of being selfish or mismanaging their organizations. There are also long-standing rivalries and trust issues preventing cooperation.
[Second from the right on the first row in a yellow T-shirt] Ms. Sandrine Mucyo with other modeling agency leaders after the meeting in Kigali - PHOTO SSANDUINA
"We've tried collaborating before, but it always falls apart because people put their own interests first," said Jacques Havugimana head of KMM "Until we can get past that, these efforts won't succeed."
Despite the roadblocks, Mucyo remains determined. The most recent STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE in October 2023 featured models from different modeling agencies sharing the runway.
40 out of over 250 models were selected to participate in the inauguration of the highly anticipated the STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE 2023 at the Marriott Hotel [PHOTO NT]
Model on the runway at the Stage Fashion Showcase 2023 [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
"It's a start, but I won't give up on my vision of a unified modeling community here," Mucyo stated. "The benefits for everyone involved are clear. We just have to overcome the egos and politics getting in the way."
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
As she continues rallying the agencies, Mucyo hopes to make the STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE an unmissable annual event that brings positive attention to Rwanda's modeling talent. The Stage Fashion Showcase is a hub for models that is not only geared towards booking talent on a national level but also towards planning a fashion show, under the auspices of SSANDUINA Ltd, with the goal of discovering, promoting, and growing Africa's models and fashion designers on a worldwide level.
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
" We want to meet you in person while we discuss and shape together the future of our fashion industry most especially in the Modeling Sector. We’ve been waiting for this time to meet you and hear about what you are doing, and aiming to do and how better we can collaborate on the series of projects we have for models while we emphasize our recently announced Models Casting and the main Edition 2 of the biggest current Fashion Show in Rwanda" announcement by the Stage Fashion Showcase calling modeling agencies.
Announcement by SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
Sandrine Mucyo is a former model turned entrepreneur on a mission to bring cohesion to Rwanda's modeling industry through her STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE. However, her efforts have faced resistance from some agency leaders unwilling to collaborate. The STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE, now in its second year, aims to provide a platform for models from different agencies to come together and showcase their talents. Mucyo, the founder, believes this kind of unified event benefits the entire industry.
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
"When we work separately, it limits the opportunities for our models," Mucyo said. "By joining forces for events like the STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE, we can elevate Rwandan modeling and attract more brands and sponsors."
ALSO READ: The Stage Fashion Showcase: A Prestigious Fashion Show is Set to Premiere on October 14, 2023
However, getting agency leaders on board has proven difficult. Some have accused others of being selfish or mismanaging their organizations. There are also long-standing rivalries and trust issues preventing cooperation.
[Second from the right on the first row in a yellow T-shirt] Ms. Sandrine Mucyo with other modeling agency leaders after the meeting in Kigali - PHOTO SSANDUINA
"We've tried collaborating before, but it always falls apart because people put their own interests first," said Jacques Havugimana head of KMM "Until we can get past that, these efforts won't succeed."
Despite the roadblocks, Mucyo remains determined. The most recent STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE in October 2023 featured models from different modeling agencies sharing the runway.
40 out of over 250 models were selected to participate in the inauguration of the highly anticipated STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE 2023 at the Marriott Hotel [PHOTO NT]
Model on the runway at the Stage Fashion Showcase 2023 [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
"It's a start, but I won't give up on my vision of a unified modeling community here," Mucyo stated. "The benefits for everyone involved are clear. We just have to overcome the egos and politics getting in the way."
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
As she continues rallying the agencies, Mucyo hopes to make the STAGE FASHION SHOWCASE an unmissable annual event that brings positive attention to Rwanda's modeling talent. The Stage Fashion Showcase is a hub for models that is not only geared towards booking talent on a national level but also towards planning a fashion show, under the auspices of SSANDUINA Ltd, with the goal of discovering, promoting, and growing Africa's models and fashion designers on a worldwide level.
Ms. Sandrine Mucyo CEO and Managing Director of SSANDUINA LTD the organizer of the Stage Fashion Showcase [PHOTO SSANDUINA]
How Far is the African Fashion Industry? Potential, sustainability, and Challenges
Model Franco Kabano on the runway show in the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
The fashion industry in Africa faces several challenges in achieving sustainability, primarily due to a combination of economic, social, and environmental factors. However, the African fashion industry is brimming with potential as stated in the UNESCO Report dubbed The African Fashion Sector: Trends, Challenges and Opportunities for Growth. A burgeoning middle class, a youthful and growing population, and rapid urbanization are creating a booming market for African-made clothing. African fashion designers, drawing inspiration from traditional techniques and a rich cultural heritage, are not only creating beautiful and unique garments but also fostering economic growth and empowering communities across the continent.
However, despite its undeniable potential, the African fashion industry also faces a number of significant challenges. These challenges include a lack of investment, limited educational and training opportunities, difficulty sourcing high-quality materials, and navigating complex intellectual property issues.
Made in Africa cloths during the exhibition at the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
A Flourishing Market
Africa boasts a population of 1.2 billion people, with an estimated 60% being under the age of 25. This young demographic is fashion-forward and has a growing disposable income. A burgeoning middle class, with a taste for quality and a desire for unique pieces, is further propelling the demand for African fashion. Rapid urbanization is another key driver of growth in the fashion industry. As more and more Africans move to cities, the demand for ready-made clothing increases.
The rise of digital technologies is also playing a significant role in the growth of the African fashion industry. Online platforms are providing African designers with a global reach, allowing them to showcase their collections to a wider audience and connect with potential customers around the world. Social media is another powerful tool that African fashion designers are using to promote their brands and build a loyal following.
Cultural Inspiration and Economic Empowerment
African fashion is known for its vibrant colours, bold prints, and unique silhouettes. African designers are drawing inspiration from a rich cultural heritage, incorporating traditional textiles, techniques, and motifs into their contemporary designs. This not only creates visually stunning garments but also helps to preserve and promote African culture.
The growth of the African fashion industry is also having a positive impact on local economies. The industry is creating jobs, not only for designers and tailors but also for artisans, weavers, and other skilled workers. By promoting the use of locally sourced materials and traditional techniques, the fashion industry is helping to empower communities and foster sustainable economic development.
Moreover, the focus on locally sourced materials and traditional production techniques fosters sustainable practices. By promoting the use of organic cotton, natural dyes, and upcycled materials, African fashion designers are not only reducing their environmental footprint but also creating a demand for sustainable production methods. This not only benefits the environment but also promotes ethical sourcing and empowers local communities to build sustainable livelihoods.
Model on the runway show in the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
The Road Ahead: Challenges and Opportunities
The African fashion industry is at a crossroads. With its rich cultural heritage, talented designers, and growing market, the industry has the potential to become a major force in the global fashion landscape. However, in order to achieve this potential, a number of challenges need to be addressed.
There is a need for increased investment in the African fashion industry. This investment can come from a variety of sources, including governments, development agencies, and the private sector. Investment is needed to support the development of educational and training programs, improve infrastructure, and provide access to finance for African fashion businesses.
There is also a need for stronger intellectual property protection mechanisms in Africa. This will help to protect African designers from counterfeiting and ensure that they can reap the rewards of their creativity.
By addressing these challenges, stakeholders can help the African fashion industry to flourish. A thriving African fashion industry will not only create jobs and boost economic growth but also promote cultural identity and empower communities across the continent.
Bridging the Gap: Solutions for a Sustainable Future
The future of the African fashion industry hinges on addressing the aforementioned challenges and creating an ecosystem that fosters sustainable growth. Increased investment is crucial, and stakeholders from governments and development agencies to private investors and philanthropists need to recognize the industry’s potential and allocate resources accordingly. These investments can support the development of educational and training programs in fashion design, production, and business management.
Infrastructure development is also essential. Investing in textile manufacturing facilities, processing plants, and logistics networks can create a more efficient and cost-effective environment for domestic production. This will not only reduce reliance on imports but also improve the quality and consistency of locally sourced materials.
Strengthening intellectual property protection mechanisms in Africa is crucial to safeguard the creativity of designers. Governments need to implement stricter laws against counterfeiting and streamline the process for registering and protecting designs. Additionally, raising awareness about IP rights among designers and fashion businesses is essential.
Model on the runway show in the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
Beyond Borders: A Global Stage for African Fashion
The rise of digital technologies presents exciting opportunities for African fashion designers to reach a global audience. Online platforms like e-commerce websites and social media can be leveraged to showcase collections, connect with international buyers, and build a loyal customer base. Collaboration between African designers and international fashion brands can be a powerful driver of growth. Such partnerships can provide access to expertise, technology, and global distribution networks, allowing African designers to expand their reach and achieve greater commercial success.
Model on the runway show in the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
Made in Africa cloths during the exhibition at the Kigali Triennial 2024's Fashion [PHOTO MYA]
Article source Couture Africa
The Man Behind the Kigali Fashion Week: The Story of John Bunyenshuri
John Bunyeshuli CEO and founder of the Kigali Fashion Week [PHOTO IGIHE]
Since the inception of Kigali Fashion Week, one man has stood as the driving force and mastermind behind this thriving brand. With a friendly demeanor that exudes cultural sophistication and goodwill toward others, John Bunyenshuri embodies the essence of a true cosmopolitan gentleman.
Kigali Kampala Fashion Week orga ized by Bunyeshili [PHOTO KFW]
Growing up in Uganda, Bunyenshuri was known as the class clown, always bringing joy and laughter to those around him. His fondest memories include lively outings with friends, painting the town red with wine, laughter, and dancing.
At Namasagali College in Eastern Uganda, Bunyenshuri led his dance group, the “Creative Dance Troupe,” on memorable trips to the Capital Kampala to then popular Suzanna Night Club.
Even in his formative years, he recognized that showbiz was his true calling. Fate intervened when his family, facing persecution during Obote’s regime, relocated to Vancouver, Canada.
Second from [RIGHT]; John Bunyeshuli with his team [PHOTO KFW]
ALSO READ: "Kigali Fashion Week is Still Running": Interview with the CEO and Founder John Bunyeshuli.
He pursued his studies at San Antonio Community College before venturing to London to study at the London City Lit College for the Creative Arts, specializing in Camera Acting and Theater.
“I may be shy by nature, but acting allows me to transform into a whole new persona. When I’m in front of the camera or on stage, I become extroverted, embracing my alter-ego,” John reflects his love for acting.
His journey led him to New York in 1993, where he embarked on a career in the entertainment industry. It was during this time that he discovered a passion for jazz music, mentored by a Jewish-Scottish saxophonist.
Additionally, he found success working with Suzan Scott of the Suzan Scott Agency, portraying a Luther Vandross look-alike for gigs and commercial advertisements.
“With earnings from my work as Luther Vandross, I made a down payment on an apartment in Brooklyn. Around that time, I was in my first relationship and had my first daughter. She, too, has found her place in the entertainment industry,” Bunyenshuri shares.
Although the relationship didn’t last, he found love again and had his second born daughter, also pursuing a career in entertainment.
Motivated by his experiences, John Bunyenshuri made it his mission to advocate for young talents in the industry, ensuring they receive fair treatment and opportunities.
KFW 2023 [PHOTO KFW]
In 2011, Bunyenshuri came to Rwanda and founded Kigali Fashion Week, aiming to support local talent and generate employment opportunities for youth both locally and internationally.
Today, Kigali Fashion Week has expanded to major cities like London, New York, Amsterdam, and Tokyo, showcasing Rwandan creativity on a global scale.
Looking ahead, Bunyenshuri has exciting plans, including partnering with Bella Flowers to launch Kigali Flower Festival in February next year. Additionally, he’s forming a jazz band, Twilight Jazz Groove, poised for a forthcoming launch, further enriching Rwanda’s cultural landscape.
John Bunyeshuli CEO & founder of the Kigali Fashion Week, during the conference in Kampala - Kigali Fashion Week 2023 fashion discussions [PHOTO KFW]
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Winner of Rising Sustainable Brand Award in New York 2024: The rise of Asantii to a global sustainable fashion brand
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
After winning the prestigious 2024 Rising Sustainable Brand Award in New York, Rwandan based clothing line Asantii is primed to push its brand to the global market, according to Asanti’s analyst, Noble Nziza. Speaking to The New Times, Nziza said that “this prize inspired and motivated Asantii to keep pushing for the globalization of Made in Africa”. He added that Asantii’s road to being a global sustainable brand is truly one with intention and commitment to its people and the planet.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Founded by Rwandan entrepreneur, . She is a Rwandan woman entrepreneur with over 20 years of experience in the global fashion and garments industry in Europe but also in China and South East Asia and more recently since 2017, in Africa. Maryse is the founder of Pink Mango, an export-focused garment trading and manufacturing group. She is also the co-founder of the C&D Pink Mango Rwanda joint venture, a group of export-oriented garment factories employing jointly 5,000 workers in Rwanda to date, 70% of whom are women.
Workers inside ASANTII shop in Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Maryse Mbonyumutwa CEO and founder of the ASANTII clothing brand { PHOTO ASANTII]
In 2022, Asantii, in February got recognised during an event hosted by Coterie New York, an organisation that links up-and-coming designers with knowledgeable insiders who can change the direction of fashion. The event was held on February 22, and was attended by 760 other people in the fashion sector from across the world.
“When you meet other brands in the community you realize everyone has the same hustle - fashion owners, fashion designers, fashion sellers - I love that aspect of COTERIE." - J Squared Showroom
Their commitment to sustainability is based on the concept of "ubuntu," which translates as humanity; it is the idea that "I am" because "we are." It is seen largely in how they have established a conducive environment for their workers by giving daily meals, monthly sanitary pads, and subsidized groceries to all factory workers.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Asantii believes that this is the first project of its kind, as they have made it their mission to add value to the rich skills Africa has. 80 per cent of the materials are sourced from the continent because Asantii is particularly conscious of the origins of its raw resources; their denim is sourced from Egypt, their cotton is sourced from Madagascar, and their added novelty fabrics are hand woven in Burkina Faso. They have also partnered with cooperatives in Rwanda for broidery and in South Africa for beading.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
To create their collections, the Asantii team brings together 14 African designers they work with, each with their own brand, to share inspiration and heritage, rooted in the continent right from the initiation phase. Asantii particularly merges cultural heritage and industry knowledge to create timeless and effortless essentials that pay homage to Africans. The purpose of this project is to address the issue of Africa's thin representation in the global fashion industry—less than one per cent.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
The purpose of this project is to address the issue of Africa's thin representation in the global fashion industry—less than 1%. To widen the representation of fashion in Africa, Asantii became part of the first export and domestic garment factory in Rwanda and embarked on a passionate, sustainable journey.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Maryse’s dedication to creating meaningful development in Africa, hence her decision to set up Pink Ubuntu, a CSR program which aims to improve the living conditions of workers, particularly women in the textile and garment industries across the African continent. The clothing brand ASANTI is a contemporary pan African clothing brand celebrating the continent’s heritage and craftsmanship through sustainable and fair fashion. Asantii was launched in August 2022 and is currently available online and in selected concept stores in Kigali, Accra, Abidjan, London, New York, and Brussels.
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Made by ASANTII clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTII]
Made by ASANTI clothing brand based in Kigali- Rwanda[PHOTO ASANTI]
"Infaransa collection is not fully released. That was a pre-lunch event to meet with our clients and of course fashion lovers and fashion enthusiasts. The big event will be taking place in May 2024, in Paris" Moses Turahirwa Creative Designer and the founder of Moshions told the RCFS's Media
In a black jacket Mr. Moses Turahirwa, a fashion designer and the founder of Moshions [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
The Moshions a luxury fashion brand from Rwanda, recently debuted its latest couture collection, Infaransa. The launch showcased a diverse range of creatively designed outfits on the runway, featuring music artists and renowned models.
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
Moses Turahirwa Creative Designer and the founder of Moshions running on the runway to express the INFARANSA Collection concept [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA: " In this Queer couture state of mind, We are going to church running... [I am really running ...?, I'm afraid to be late, so I am running, I am running, I am carrying a lot but I am running, I Am changing money, buying things on the way, buying food & eating on the streets. while I'm running, but I am running, I meet my friends on the way, oh they are so also running, we are running. we are taking a little break as we breathe in and out....phewwww, but hey we are running ... we are so beautiful like angels but we are running... running to Heaven... We are arriving... INDEGE Y'INFARANSA" by Moses Turahirwa creative designer and founder of the Moshions
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
Moshions bridges the past with the future to unleash the creative potential of the present. Established in 2015 by Moses Turahirwa, Moshions reimagines the eclectic visual heritage of Africa. Through innovative and artful elevation, we design contemporary luxury apparel and accessories for a global audience. Inspired by and dedicated to local craftsmanship and artisanry, we collaborate with local and continental suppliers to empower a new generation of creatives. Moshions champions premium quality, 100% Made in Africa fashion.
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
ALSO READ: WHERE IS THE BRAND MOSHIONS NOW? A NEW COLLECTION HAS BEEN RELEASED "ISHURI RIRAKOMEJE"
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
Moses Turahirwa with models- INFARANSA Collection made by MOSHIONS [PHOTO KWANDAS1]
Who Are the Five African Fashion Designers in the TechStitched Programme?
The TechStitched is the latest fashion residency programme, unveiled last week in Ethiopia. It has been designed in collaboration with the esteemed Hub of Africa Fashion Week and Guzo Technologies. It is a beacon of innovation and partnership within the African fashion landscape.
At its core, the TechStitched Fashion Residency Programme is all about creative exchange and cross-cultural engagement. Through a meticulous selection process, fashion designers hailing from the stages of Hub of Africa, Accra, Swahili, South Africa, and Lagos Fashion Weeks have converged in Ethiopia, for an immersive journey of exploration, craftsmanship, and collaboration.
The TechStitched is the latest fashion residency programme, unveiled last week in Ethiopia [PHOTO BC]
This initiative offers selected designers a remarkable opportunity to immerse themselves in Ethiopia's rich cultural tapestry and artisanal traditions. From the vibrant streets of Addis Ababa to the serene landscapes of Arba Minch, participants will traverse diverse terrains, each imbued with its unique blend of heritage and modernity.
The TechStitched Fashion Residency Programme united five fashion powerhouses from Nigeria, Ethiopia, South Africa, Tanzania, and Ghana [PHOTO BC]
Set against the scenic backdrop of Arba Minch, this initiative delved into the intricacies of Ethiopian textile artistry. From the delicate touch of cotton to the luxurious allure of silk, designers were immersed in hands-on workshops, guided by master artisans preserving centuries-old techniques. Beyond honing their craft, this immersive journey offered invaluable insights into Ethiopia’s dynamic fashion landscape, enriching their creative vision and deepening their appreciation for timeless traditions.
The TechStitched Fashion Residency Programme united five fashion powerhouses from Nigeria, Ethiopia, South Africa, Tanzania, and Ghana [PHOTO BC]
Kuhle Phumzile Zondo is a fashion designer selected for the TechStitched fashion residency in Ethiopia. Kuhle is from South Africa Fashion Week. She is the Creative Design at E_mania, a brand that finds its creative spark in African idioms, weaving them into its distinctive aesthetic.
Kuhle Phumzile Zondo a fashion designer and founder of E_MANIA [PHOTO BC]
Based in Johannesburg, the brand positions itself as an artistic movement dedicated to reimagining African idioms through fashion. At the heart of E_mania lies a profound connection to the intricate tapestry of African cultural narratives. Each garment crafted by E_mania upholds the brand's 3 R promise - Repair, Re-Use, and Recycle - underscoring its unwavering commitment to sustainability.
Made by E_mania [PHOTO E_MANIA]
Made by E_mania [PHOTO E_MANIA]
Meron Abraha Berhe is a fashion designer who was selected from Hub of Africa Fashion Week. She is the Creative Designer at Birabiro Apparel, a modern fashion label deeply rooted in cultural inspiration and sustainability. The Birabiro blends style with eco-consciousness and stays committed to locally sourced materials and ethical production methods.
Meron Abraha Berhe, a fashion designer and founder of the Birabiro Apparel [PHOTO BIRABIRO]
Made by Birabiro Apparel [PHOTO BIRABIRO]
Made by Birabiro Apparel [PHOTO BIRABIRO]
Peter Oroja Acha, is a fashion designer and founder of the Pettre Taylor which is a Nigeria-based free-spirited lifestyle brand founded to inspire freedom and flexibility in young creative minds. From a multicultural perspective, it produces expressive and refined garments that embrace an eclectic mix of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary designs. This brand serves as a fusion point for cultures, politics, craft, and sophisticated colour sensibilities, catering to individuals seeking an authentic and diverse expression of style.
Peter Oroja Acha a fashion designer and founder of the PETTRE TAYLOR [PHOTO BC]
Made by PETTRE TAYLOR [PHOTO BC]
Made by PETTRE TAYLOR [PHOTO BC]
Kulwa Maige Njabuli is a fashion designer selected from the Swahili Fashion Week and she is the founder of Jesakudo Fashion House. The brand uses a diverse range of materials in its garments and accessories. Its overarching goal is to extend its reach globally, offering meticulously crafted creations to discerning customers.
Kulwa Maige Njabuli fashion designer and founder of Jesakudo Fashion House [PHOTO BC]
Made by Jesakudo Fashion House [PHOTO BC]
Made by Jesakudo Fashion House [PHOTO BC]
Abigail Boison is a fashion designer selected from the Accra Fashion Week and is the founder of Magbrien. The brand is renowned for its distinctive ready-to-wear designs that offer luxury within reach. With meticulous attention to detail, the brand takes pride in delivering impeccable finishing in every piece. Unafraid of vibrant hues, they infuse their designs with an array of stunning colours, catering to the diverse preferences of their clientele.
Abigail Boison a fashion designer and founder of the Style_Magbrien [PHOTO BC]
Made by Style_Magbrien [PHOTO SM]
Made by Style_Magbrien [PHOTO SM]
The TechStitched Fashion Residency Programme united five fashion powerhouses from Nigeria, Ethiopia, South Africa, Tanzania, and Ghana [PHOTO BC]
Celebrating Top 16 Female Entrepreneurs: Driving Innovation and Empowerment in Rwanda's Fashion Industry
The fashion industry in Rwanda has seen a significant rise in recent years, and women have played a crucial role in its development. Despite facing various challenges, Rwandan women in the fashion sector have demonstrated remarkable resilience, creativity, and entrepreneurial spirit. This story is developed from the original story published by UZURI K &Y.
The article highlights the remarkable female entrepreneurs shaping Rwanda's fashion industry. It celebrates their contributions to innovation, inclusivity, and empowerment, showcasing their dedication to quality, sustainability, and community upliftment. By recognizing these trailblazing women, the article aims to inspire future generations and elevate the visibility of Rwandan fashion on the global stage.
Ms. UWAMARIYA Solange inside UZURI K & Y shoe factory in Kigali [PHOTO UZURI K &Y]
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, we honor Women's Month by celebrating the outstanding female entrepreneurs shaping Rwanda's vibrant fashion landscape. From clothing to accessories, these visionary leaders are revolutionizing the industry while uplifting communities and driving economic progress.
1. One standout figure is Sonia Mugabo, whose namesake brand has garnered acclaim for its modern aesthetic and sustainable ethos. Inspired by Rwandan culture and craftsmanship, Mugabo's designs pay homage to the nation's rich heritage while embracing contemporary style. For the past 10 years, her eponymous brand has employed local artisans to make high-quality "Made in Rwanda" clothes. Focusing on versatility, detail, and fabric, Sonia Mugabo builds a conscious brand centered on elegant and timeless creations. A pioneer of Rwanda’s fashion industry, she is setting the standard for Rwandan fashion in global and local markets.
Ms. Sonia Mugabo Founder and Creative Director at Sonia Mugabo fashion house [ PHOTO SM]
Made by Sonia Mugabo [PHOTO SM]
2. Girabawe Gloria, the founder of Flove Rwanda, leads a Rwandan-based social enterprise dedicated to producing eco-friendly, reusable handbags. Flove's mission extends beyond fashion, aiming to empower teenage mothers in Rwanda by providing them with sustainable livelihoods. Through their products, Flove seeks to challenge societal norms surrounding teenage pregnancy and instill confidence in young women.
Ms. Girabawe Gloria Founder and Creative Director at Flove Rwanda [PHOTO GG]
Bags made by Flove Rwanda [PHOTO FR]
3. Sarah Legrand, as the CEO of K'tsobe Jewelry, brings a unique touch of elegance to the fashion world with her exquisite pieces. Crafted from a blend of natural and noble materials, Legrand's jewelry is inspired by nature, Rwandan symbols, and global cultures, offering a distinctively beautiful aesthetic.
Ms Sarah Legrand Founder and Creative Director at K'tsobe Jewelry [PHOTO SL]
Jeweies made by K'tsobe Jewelry [PHOTO KJ]
4. Teta Isibo is a self-taught fashion designer and entrepreneur passionate about youth entrepreneurship and mentorship, women empowerment, Africa's development, Business and leadership, Innovation, Rwanda, fashion design, interior design, and all things design. She is the founder and creative director of Inzuki Designs.
Ms. Teta Isibo Founder and Creative Director at Inzuki Designs [ PHOTO TI]
Handmade jewelry made by Inzuki Designs [PHOTO ID]
5. Joselyne Umutoniwase the founder of Rwanda Clothing Ltd which started in 2012 aims to offer well-tailored pieces and customized clothing made in Rwanda by Rwandans. The company started with two tailors and today has forty-five full-time and more than 50 part-time employees from different associations of women especially for the home decor pieces. Rwanda Clothing Home Ltd has two showrooms in Kigali and a production space. The company has a solid foundation and a successful growth curve. The brand is becoming well known not only within Rwanda but also across Africa and the world. It is a global brand.
Ms. Joselyne Umutoniwase Founder and Creative Director at Rwanda Clothing [PHOTO RC]
Made by Rwanda Clothing [PHOTO RC]
6. Haute Baso is an ethical lifestyle brand for the modern individual looking for thoughtful, simple, and functional designs. It offers an experiential shopping experience with blends of premium made-in-Rwanda fashion, food and beverage, and arts. It is centered around the belief that “two heads are better than one” using fashion as a vehicle for positive change towards the empowerment of women and youth who are integral to our value chain while contributing to the preservation of culture in Rwanda.
Ms. Linda Mukangoga (right) and Ms. Candy Basomingera Co-founders of the Haute Basso [PHOTO INTERNET]
Made by Haute Basso [PHOTO HB]
7. Karssh Collections Ltd is a woman-owned made in Rwanda brand founded by Karen N Uwera in 2008.KarSSH is a bespoke and made-to-order brand that produces to create a sync between modernity, Rwandan culture, and its beautiful nature. The brand aims to create Rwandan fashion trends upholding the beautiful uniqueness of Rwandan culture, climate, and nature.
Ms. Karen N Uwera Founder and Creative Director at Karssh Collections [PHOTO KNU]
Made by Karssh Collections [PHOTO KNU]
8. Glo Creations was founded in 2008, by Ms. Gloria KAMANZI UWIZERA. The company has its extensive network in the Rwandan market and has gained an in-depth understanding of the handcraft sector. Its mission is to deliver quality products by blending quality and efficiency while maintaining integrity and dedication toward environmental and social responsibilities.
Ms. Gloria KAMANZI UWIZERA Founder and Creative Director at Glo Creations [PHOTO GLO CREATIONS ]
Living room Cushions made and designed by Glo Creations [PHOTO GLO CREATIONS]
9. Uzi Collections is one of the leading and pioneering fashion brands in Rwanda. It was founded in 2015 by Umutoni Rwema Laurène with the aim of providing unique and high-quality Made in Rwanda clothes that were hard to access. Her passion for fashion and her dream to change the country’s apparel industry made the young entrepreneur grow the business from a small brand with one tailor to one of the most-known fashion houses in Rwanda. Uzi Collections is a female-led business that beliefs in empowering young and particularly female tailors.
Ms. Laurene Umutoni Rwema CEO and Founder of UZI Collectios[ PHOTO LUR]
Collection made by Uzi Collections [PHOTO UZI COLLECTIONS]
10. Touch of Rwanda Fashion Designs is a fashion brand based in Rwanda that sells clothes in different materials by sizes, and we have a custom-made for men, women, and kids, plus different accessories such as bags, bathrobes, bed covers, and tablecloths. Touch Of Rwanda Fashion Designs Ltd was founded by Shema Charlotte.
Ms. Shema Charlotte Founder and Creative Director at Touch of Rwanda Fashion Designs [PHOTO SHEMA]
Made by the Touch of Rwanda Fashion Designs [PHOTO SHEMA]
11. The Mille Collines story begins in Kigali in 2008 when the paths of two passionate women crossed: Antoinette, a Rwandan seamstress, and Ines, a Spanish design student. They both shared the same vision; a belief that uniting talents would lead to creating groundbreaking products in Africa. Ines’ best friend Marc joined her in Rwanda and with Antoinette’s mentorship, they created the first apparel collection. In 2009 the brand was co-founded by Marc and Ines, the artisans and design team at the first Kigali Atelier voted for the name ‘Atelier des mille collines’.
Ms. Maye Srouji CEO of the Mille Collines [PHOTO MS]
Made by the Mille Collines [PHOTO MC]
12. Dokmai is a newcomer in Rwanda, but the company has its roots in Laos. For 8 years Dokmai produced Fair Trade handmade goods, specializing in hand-woven and naturally dyed silk products following both traditional styles and en vogue fashion. In 2014, Bernadette Umunyana left Southeast Asia and decided to restart a new handicraft business aiming at attracting the attention of the international community for the beauty of Rwanda in promoting exquisite handicraft products inspired by the splendor of the country of a thousand hills.
Ms. Bernadette Umunyana CEO and founder of Dokmai [PHOTO DOKMAI]
Nice handbags Made by Dokmai [PHOTO DOKMAI]
13. Gahaya Links After the 1994 Rwandan Genocide, thousands of women were left as widows, single mothers, and orphaned teenage girls who were the sole income providers for their families. Sisters Joy Ndunguste and Janet Nkubana recognized the opportunity to use traditional Rwandan weaving as a means of income generation and created Gahaya Links as a training facility and marketplace to economically empower Rwandan women.
Joy Ndunguste Chief Executive Officer and Founder Gahaya Links [PHOTO GAHAYA LINKS]
Janet Nkubana Managing Director & Co-Founder of Gahaya Links [PHOTO GAHAYA LINKS]
Decorations made by Gahaya Links [GAHAYA LINKS]
14. Azizi Life began in 2008 as an initiative of the Christian nonprofit, Food for the Hungry. Through a business development program, with a number of artisan cooperatives including women. Azizi Life was begun to honor the initiatives and work of the artisans and serve as a bridge to customers around the world.
Ms. Jeannine, Chief Executive Officer at Azizi Life Rwanda [PHOTO AZIZI]
Purses made by Azizi Life Cooperative [PHOTO AZIZI]
16. Additionally, we celebrate Kevine Kagirimpundu and Ysolde SHIMWE founders of UZURI K & Y who have been pivotal in driving innovation and inclusivity in the Rwandan fashion landscape. Uzuri K&Y is renowned for its commitment to quality, sustainability, and empowerment, making strides in promoting Rwandan fashion both locally and globally.
UZURI K&Y is an African-inspired eco-friendly shoe brand that champions sustainability through its innovative use of the 4R technology: recycling, reusing, recovering, and reducing car tires to create eco-friendly footwear. Founded in 2013 by two visionary friends, Ms. Ysolde and Ms. Kevine, the company emerged with a mission to address pressing environmental and unemployment challenges within their community.
Kevine Kagirimpundu CoFounder & CEO UZURI K&Y [PHOTO KEVINE]
"As we celebrate Women's Month, let us commend the resilience and innovation of Rwandan female entrepreneurs. Their dedication to tradition, sustainability, and craftsmanship not only shapes the fashion industry but also inspires future generations to pursue bold dreams and effect positive change" UZURI K & Y
Ysolde Shimwe Co-Founder & Creative Director at UZURI K&Y [PHOTO Ysolde]
Shoes made by UZURI K & Y [PHOTO UZURI K & Y]
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