Rwandese model Christine Munezero Among Top 8 African Models Who are Redefining Runways Worldwide 

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

I remember when modeling was introduced for the first time in my hometown, in the heart of Kigali city, everyone was laughing and questioning what was the next after becoming a model. Some other people used to call models, young people who do nothing just to amuse themselves. When I attended a fashion show for the first time In 2008, I  saw models on the runway and it was so fun and very creative. Many thanks to Dady de Maximo Mwicira-Mitali who was the organizer of that fashion show. 

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram) 

So far modeling in Rwanda is a career many young people want to join and are investing in. Not only in Rwanda, but modeling is becoming also a source of earning income for models as well as modeling agencies and model agents in other African countries. 

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

 Christine Munezero's evidence proves that modeling in Rwanda is growing locally and internationally. She is from the mother agency WeBest Model Management founded by former models Franco Kabano and Sara Cyntia. Locally, Munezero participated in different fashion shows and many photoshoots in partnership with different fashion designers.  

Frano Kabano Co-founder of the WeBest Model Management (Photo Franco)

Sara Cyntia Co-founder of the WeBest Model Management (Photo Igihe)

ALSO READ: WHERE DO MATHEO AND FRANCO GET THOSE FASHION IDEAS? 50 FASHION TRENDING STYLES IN RWANDA

The model Munezero is among the top 8 African models that are redefining runways Worldwide. The story published by AfriFashion Promotion highlights African female models who are promoting beauty and African culture. Internationally, Rwandes model Munezero has participated in different international fashion weeks such as Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, and many more. She has worked with big fashion houses like Fendi, Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Giorgio. 

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

ALSO READ: RWANDAN WOMEN RUNWAY MODELS CONTINUE TO RAISE RWANDA'S FLAG ON THE INTERNATIONAL LEVEL 

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero on the runway (Photo CM Instagram)

ALSO READ: INTERNATIONAL MODEL EVELINE GONZENBACH TO BOOST FASHION AND MODELING INDUSTRY IN RWANDA

 Christine Munezero (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero (Photo CM Instagram)

Christine Munezero (Photo CM Instagram)

[Dady de Maximo Mwicira-Mitali ] The Man Behind Modeling in Rwanda 

Dady de Maximo on the runway (Photo Internet)

Dady de Maximo is a familiar face in Rwanda from the time he worked on Contact FM radio in the late 2000s, many remember him for his voice. Together with other equally very popular presenters, their daily evening program was the ‘must-listen’. It covered a variety of social issues. And there was a segment where they could get you a bride or groom.

Dady de Maximo on the runway (Photo Internet)

Some years later, Dady de Maximo moved to fashion completely. He organized several fashion shows between 2008 and 20011 in Kigali. Besides being a journalist he is also a model coach and he was the first person in Rwanda to train many models including Franco Kabano the CO-founder of the WeBest Model Management which is currently managing Christine Munezero. Daddy de Maximo who later became a book writer and publisher, Currently lives in Europe.  

Dady de Maximo  is currently a book writer  and publisher (Photo Internet)

 By Celestin Ntawirema 

RCFS's Media 

"My advice to my beautiful African Queens with a dream of joining Miss Supranational is first to know that you are beautiful enough to win that Crown," said Charlotte Umulisa Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022 during the interview with the RCFS's Media. 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022 - Charlotte Umulisa in bikini wear (Photo Umulisa)

Charlotte Umulisa is a proud Rwandan woman. Born and raised in Rwanda currently living in Poland. She represented Rwanda in the Miss Supranational 2022, the 13th edition. According to Miss Charlotte, Miss Supranational 2022, was a great platform for her to learn and be inspired by other participants.  Last year 2023 in December, Miss Charlotte was in Rwanda where she attended different fashion and beauty events in Kigali.

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa (Photo Umulisa)

One of the events she attended was the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023. Miss Charlotte was well-styled and the outfits she wore for this event raised the emotions of different fashion lovers and people who knew her for the first time when she was crowned the Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022.

Miss Supranational Rwanda- Charlotte Umulisa in a well-made style that raised emotion among fashion lovers in Kigali

during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

The RCFS's Media organized an interview with Miss Charlotte to discuss more about Made in Rwanda, her plan for 2024, and some tips she would share with other Africans who would love to join the Miss Supranational contestant 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa (Photo Umulisa)

Journalist: Tell us more about your journey to represent Rwanda in the international contestant Miss Supranational 2022. How did you end up representing Rwanda in Miss Supranational 2022? any challenges faced 

 ⁠I was approached by Miss Supranational organizer Mr. Gerald when he saw me competing in Miss Warsaw in Poland, where he was invited as the guest. I am a model and before joining this competition the Miss Supranational 2022 I knew and had some skills in modeling like cut-walking, posing, and public speaking. 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa (Photo Umulisa)

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa (Photo Umulisa)

Journalist: Are there any challenges you faced while searching to enter Miss Supranational? if yes how did you overcome these challenges? 

My journey to miss supranational wasn’t as challenging as I thought it would but of course, the main challenge for me was that our Country [Rwanda] is well known for many other things. But when it comes to beauty pageants it’s not where we shine as Rwandans. I am sure anybody [Rwandan] ever attended international contests knows well that it takes a well-known country in beauty pageants to win it. It is not really just the girl.  

Well, the only way to overcome those challenges is to just work hard and do my part well, that way whether I win or not. But I never feel guilty about anything when it comes to being who I am. I was representing my country and we did the best we can.

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa in bikini wear (Photo Umulisa)

Journalist: What advice can you share with the African queens who are looking to participate in the future of the Miss Supranational? what should they put in mind before applying? 

 ⁠My advice to my beautiful African queens with a dream of joining Miss Supranational is; First to know that you are beautiful enough to win that Crown. Secondly, make sure you are well prepared both mentally and physically. Lastly, practice well your catwalks and as well as public speaking rehearsal if possible.

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa is also a model  (Photo Umulisa)

Journalist: At Rifi Dance and Fashion Show 2023, you decided to wear that very well-made outfit with a dark blue color. Is the blue your favorite color? what is your favorite color and how do you choose clothes to wear/style and why? Do you have a fashion designer?

Well, honestly I am such a person who loves to play with many colours because apart from being a model am even a stylist and I have my own clothing brand. I always choose an outfit depending on the occasion but mostly depending on the mood I am having, so with that being said am my own stylist. 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 202- Charlotte Umulisa and her sister LEFT] Miss Tina Uwase who also Represented Rwanda in Miss Supranational 2018 was among the celebrities who attended the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

ALSO READ:  UNIQUE OF THE RIFI DANCE AND FASHION SHOW 2023

Journalist: What is your view on the fashion industry in Rwanda in terms of fashion design and modeling?

I always feel emotions and even tears come in my eyes when I am asked these questions. Listen, because I see how the Rwandan fashion industry has grown tremendously within a short period, proud wouldn’t be enough words to describe how happy that makes me feel. I can say that modeling is doing very well. You can see many models participating in international fashion weeks, like Paris Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week, and many more. 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa in bikini wear (Photo Umulisa)

In terms of fashion designers, It is still growing and I am very proud of my brothers and sisters in fashion design. The creative industry is not easy to maintain, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic which impacted some fashion houses but we are doing good. I want to send congratulations to everyone who is trying to increase his or her efforts to create more collections and new designs to promote made in Rwanda and made in Africa. 

Miss Supranational Rwanda 2022- Charlotte Umulisa is also a model  (Photo Umulisa)

Journalist: What are you currently doing? Is there any future project would like to share with fashion lovers in Rwanda?

I am currently working on my clothing brand as well as my Tour project that I am thinking of launching soon so far that’s what am fully focused on. I can ask my followers especially fashion lovers and fashion enthusiasts to support us and buy from us. In this way, we can all grow together. Soon, I will share more about my clothing brand and how clients can reach our products easily. 

Collection from the Charlotte Boutique (Photo CB)

Collection from the Charlotte Boutique (Photo CB)

 The RCFS's Media 

Umurisa is among the top models currently treading in Rwanda and in the East Africa region. This comes after her great success journey to participate in the Swahili Fashion Week (SFW2023). In the interview with the RCFS's Media Umurisa said that it was not by mistake to be selected and invited to the SFW2023 representing Rwanda because it was her time. 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

"I have been doing modeling as my career for more than 7 years. It was my time. It was good news to hear from the organizers of the SFW2023 after checking my profile that I deserved to be among the nominees in the category of the East African Model of the Year 2023 representing my country Rwanda" Said Umurisa 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa was among  the SFW 2023 's nominees (Photo SFW2023)

 It all started in November last year when the organizers of the SFW sent an invitation to Umurisa telling her that she was selected and she would represent Rwanda in the category of the East African Model of the Year 2023. Since then, Umurisa was on the list among the contestants on board from 4 countries; Kenya, Burundi, Uganda, and Rwanda where the audience started to vote who would be the winner. 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

" It was possible because my management team is based in Tanzania, they have been working with me to prepare to attend this regional fashion week. I knew that I would go there for 3 days just for a fashion show, but later I was told that I was also among the nominees, not only modeling. Thank you to my team in Tanzania" Said Umurisa 

According to Rwanda's top model Umurisa, the SFW2023 was a great platform for her to gain more than just taking photos on the runway. 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

" I got several things from the SFW 2023; first I gained experience by working with a big team, and many models from different countries in the area of communication for such a big event which is most important in our career. second, I got many connections and for us models, we need more fashion houses and many agents to recognize us for future opportunities, so I was very happy to be part of the SFW 2023" said Umurisa

Even though Umurisa was pleased with the SFW2023 which was born and based in Tanzania, she thinks models in Rwanda are more advanced in terms of management and opportunities than the models in Tanzania. 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

" I can say that models in Rwanda are a bit advanced more than the ones in Tanzania, let's say in terms of many modeling agencies. In Rwanda, we have many models who have been in the international fashion weeks, and we have many people who are involved in modeling like professional Modelscounters, and mother agencies. In Rwanda, we have many people who try to look more and more interested in models" said Umurisa 

According to the top model, Tanzania's modeling sector is still missing people who can see general interest in models and modeling in general. She described the situation where she said that whoever models are advanced and already established with a lot of connections in Tanzania continue to advance even more but the new and upcoming models still struggle to be sustainably established. 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

" Tanzania has very good models and even inside their country, they have a better experience than some of ours but when it comes to the international scene, Rwanda's models are more experienced and have more opportunities. Another thing I saw, is we all have a uniqueness in the way we do modeling because we are also two different countries with different cultural values" said Umurisa 

Our journalist has asked Umurisa about the technical team, management, audience, stage, and logistics of the SFW2023

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

" About the stage, normally their stage is always bigger and credited internationally, but the 2023 edition. According to the chosen location which was small, the stage was short and a bit smaller compared to their previous editions. The event itself was well organized. People in Tanzania love fashion, fashion is within them, the event was set for 3 days but every day it was fully and mixture of citizens and foreigners. very happy and fashionable audience" said Umurisa 

The top model Umurisa describes the list of fashion designers who were showcased at the SFW 2023 as the best designers she had ever seen with unique and various collections. 

" Interesting for the list of the fashion designers who showcased in the SFW 2023, before being approved to showcase as a fashion designer, every fashion designer had to present her or his collection to get the feedback from the team in charge. When they found that your collection was not well designed and finished, and unique collection you couldn't get a chance to showcase. They had very good fashion designers who showcased unique outfits and were well organized " said Umurisa 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

 Umurisa shares her views on the difference between Rwanda's fashion designers' creations and Tanzania's fashion designers' creations in terms of collections and target audience.

" Fashion designers in Tanzania specifically in Dar Salaam, have different target audiences. This is a beach area and hot, so fashion designers create easy outfits and flowing dresses for women and beach wear; like bikinis, and shorts for men. While in Rwanda our fashion designers mostly create outfits to wear in the offices, gala dinners, and sometimes they create depending on our cold and sometimes freezing weather" said Umurisa 

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa on the runway during the SFW 2023  (Photo SFW2023)

 Our journalist asked Rwanda's top model what is keeping her busy these days and what her plans are in 2024 where she said that she is in the process of establishing her owner clothing brand

" Currently, I am busy working on my clothing brand which is called" Gabriella Fashion House" and my team is busy creating my website and all the necessary before I confirm the launching date. Soon, I will share with you more about my clothing brand. The only thing is that I want to make it easier for fashion lovers so that can purchase online" said Umurisa. 

Collection made by Gabriella Fashion House (Photo Gabriella)

Collection made by Gabriella Fashion House (Photo Gabriella)

Collection made by Gabriella Fashion House (Photo Gabriella)

The SWF is the biggest and largest annual fashion event in East African countries providing a platform for fashion and accessory designers from Swahili speaking countries and beyond to showcase their talent, market their creativity, and network with clientele and the international fashion industry.

 SFW is among the continental fashion weeks (Photo  SFW2023)

SFW is among the continental fashion weeks (Photo  SFW2023)

SFW is among the continental fashion weeks (Photo  SFW2023)

The SWF aims to emphasize to the region that fashion is an income-generating creative industry, meanwhile promoting a Made in Africa concept. It was founded and created by a celebrated Pan-African couturier from Tanzania, Mustafa Hassanali in the year 2008.

Winners of the SFW 2023

Rwanda's Top Model Gabriella Umurisa journey in the fashion industry in Rwanda has been enjoyable as she has been participating in all big fashion weeks in the country such as the Kigali Fashion Week, Rwanda Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week, and many more. Umurisa sends a message to young and upcoming models who dream of making their dreams come true.

"I send a message to young and new upcoming models in Rwanda and Africa in general by saying that first, modeling is a love you love it. If you start and your focus is the money you will fail because you will not reach far. even us, we love modeling and that is what still keeps us doing it and we do love modeling. It is our passion. If you love modeling go for it, start early, and don't wait. But also, don't focus on modeling than your studies.  Your studies either in high school or in college should be the priority then do modeling" Said Umurisa, Rwanda's Top model. 

Collection made by Gabriella Fashion House (Photo Gabriella)

 The RCFS's Media  

“ Cagua means to select, these kinds of clothes are not good for our level now. At least a jacket you can wear it but there are some other small clothes I don’t want to mention here even you, you know …..[people laughing ]” said His excellence President of the Republic of Rwanda Paul Kagame during a ceremony in Kigali in 2016, telling other government officials about the impacts of secondhand clothes on Rwanda’s economy. 

There are a lot of expectations in the Rwanda fashion industry in 2024. We are expecting to have big fashion shows, individual fashion designer shows, exhibitions, and Rwanda models on international marketing by WEBEST Model Management, Rwanda’s leading modeling agency to send models to big international fashion weeks. Before we go to our expectations for this year, let’s look back at the journey of the Made in Rwanda movement and the ban on second-hand clothes.

A collection made by Rwanda clothing  (PHOTO RWANDA CLOTHING)

Before banning second-hand clothes in Rwanda No-one could believe that these luxury clothes on the African continent would soon be banned in the land of 1000 hills because there were so many businesses of second-hand clothes and even people were already integrated a culture of selling them walking around the streets in the capital city Kigali and other parts of the country’s cities.

People selling second-hand clothes in Kigali (PHOTO INTERNET)

Between 2016 and 2017 is the period Rwandans will never forget because it was the time the government took strong measures to decrease the import of second-hand clothes. Some of these measures impacted many people especially those who were used to making a living from selling second-hand clothes.

On the other hand, this was a moment for Rwandan creators and entrepreneurs to invest in fashion businesses. In 2017 Made in Rwanda policy was created by the Ministry of Trade and Industry. This policy is aligned with Rwanda’s aspiration to become an upper middle income country by 2035 and higher income by 2050. It is recognized its contribution to meeting these targets will ensure Rwanda moves into the lower middle-income category, given its potential to contribute both to Rwanda’s economic growth in general and the trade balance in particular, as well as to productive employment.

“Many of us were born and found second-hand clothes here. We can’t just ban them because there are many people who benefit from them. Let’s find what else to give them before we totally ban second-hand clothes” added His excellence President of the Republic of Rwanda Paul Kagame during a ceremony in Kigali in 2016, telling other government officials about the impacts of second-hand clothes on Rwanda’s economy. 

Inside Uzuri K & Y: The brand is known for making good shoes mostly for women  (PHOTO UZURI K & Y)

Contribution of fashion shows in strengthening the fashion industry in Rwanda 

Before banning second-hand clothes, Rwanda's government knew it would be possible to ban second-hand clothes because many Rwandans were already convinced about wearing locally made clothes such as Kitenge. According to the expert in fashion and textile industry, some institutions were already working with startups in the movement of wear Made in Rwanda which made it possible

Women in Rwanda wearing outfits made from Kitenge in the Southern Province (PHOTO ERIC)

“MINICOM- was working with several fashion designers and PSF was working with other designers, then later the RDB did the same. Look at the fashion show events. The first fashion shows were organized between 2012 and 2015, these shows were like a school, it was not just to present a collection on the runway, It was also teaching Rwandans how to style. I remember many ministers were attending fashion shows in Kigali and they knew it is possible to continue building and promoting made in Rwanda products especially locally made clothes” A fashion Experts told the RCFS’s Media

In a blue dress, Madam Julienne Uwacu a Minister of Sports and Culture (MINISPOC) during the RCFS 2015 at the Milles Collines Hotel in Kigali

The Role of Kigali Fashion Week 

Kigali Fashion Week (KFW) was founded in 2012 by John Bunyeshuli with the aim to help fashion designers showcase their designs, promoting Made in Rwanda and creating new modeling agencies in Kigali. Since then, many young and upcoming fashion designers started to dream bigger and bigger.  The KFW helped many local fashion designers to get established and learn more about fashion shows and how to be prepared before showcasing in events.

Models on the runway during the Kigali Fashion Week 2012 (PHOTO KFW)

Through the KFW many Rwandans were inspired and many people started to look outside the box and have different perspectives on second-hand clothes. The KFW helped some local fashion designers to showcase in the international fashion weeks in Europe.

The Role of Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show 

The Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show (RCFS) was founded in 2013 by Celestin Ntawirema which is a forum for local and international culture fashion designers to showcase their designs. It is unique by featuring designs from a variety of cultures. The RCFS came with a unique concept and reminded Rwandans about their history in cultural fashion styling where this event showcased early outfits made in backcloth and animal skins that Rwandans used to wear before the secondhand clothes arrived on the soil of Rwanda.

Models in the runway in the RCFS2014 inside the stadium in Kigali (PHOTO RCFS)

Between 2014 and 2017 the RCFS invited many international fashion designers and models to come to showcase in Kigali which was a great inspiration to other local fashion entrepreneurs to meet and learn from the international fashion entrepreneurs.

Tanzanian fashion designer Makeke International showcasing in the RCFS 2019 (PHOTO RCFS)

What to expect in the 2024 fashion industry in Rwanda

Kigali city is becoming a vibrant city in Africa where many big conferences and summits are taking place in Rwanda. This gives a chance to event organizers to create events alongside these conferences and summits. In our expectation for 2024;  fashion designers, fashion shows, modeling, and exhibitions.  

Fashion designers 

 In terms of fashion designers, according to the performance of the last year 2023, many local fashion designers are ready to continue to create new collections. On their Instagram pages, the updates show that designers' efforts have been increased. These are the top 11 fashion designers who are creating more products in Rwanda:

1. Rwanda Clothing

Made by Rwanda Clothing (PHOTO RC)

2. Mille Collines

Made by Mille Collines (PHOTO MC)

3. Uzuri K & Y

Made by Uziri K & Y (PHOTO K&Y)

4. Moshions

Made by Moshions (PHOTO MOSHIONS)

5. Matheo Studio

Made by Matheo Studio (PHOTO MATHEO)

6. Inkanda House

Made by Inkanda House  (PHOTO INKANDA)

7. Tanga Designs

Made by Tanga Designs (PHOTO TANGA)

8. Haute Baso

Made by Haute Baso (PHOTO HAUTE BASO)

9. Dokmai Rwanda

Made by Dokmai Rwanda. (PHOTO DOKMAI)

10. Sonia Mugabo

Made by Sonia Mugabo (PHOTO SONIA)

11. House of Tayo

Made by House of Tayo (PHOTO HT)

Fashion shows

There are more than 5 big fashion show events in Rwanda; Kigali Fashion Week, Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show, CollectiveRw/Rwanda Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week, Rwanda Modesty Fashion Show, and the three new upcoming events; The Stage Fashion Showcase, Gorilla Fashion Week, and the RIDI Dance and Fashion Show.

Model on the runway during the Rwanda Fashion Week 2022 (PHOTO RFW)

It is hard to say when some of these fashion weeks are scheduled in 2024 because some of them were impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic and some were closed temporarily. However, with the information the RCFS’s Media has, some of these events such as The Stage Fashion Showcase, Kigali Fashion Week, Mercedes Ben Kigali Fashion Week, and the CollectiveRw/Rwanda Fashion Week are going to happen this year. 

Models on the runway during the Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week  2022 (PHOTO MBKFW)

Rwanda Models on the International Market

Modeling business in Rwanda is among the growing sectors in the fashion industry. There are more than 20 modeling agencies across the country. The leading modeling agency is WEBEST Model Management which was founded by former models Franco Kabano and Sara Cyntia. The WEBEST agency has been sending models to different international fashion weeks such as Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week.

WEBEST Model in PARIS FASHION WEEK ss24

WEBEST Model in MILAN FASHION WEEK ss24

According to the management of WEBEST Model Management, this year is going to be as good as the past 3 years ago as they have enough connections to find jobs for their models.  

“Next year is going to be good for us and our models of course. We have already established good connections with international agents. We have a calendar and we know when some of these fashion weeks are going to happen soon, we will tell more about our 2024 contracts and transfers” said the WEBEST Model Management during an interview last year in 2023

WEBEST Model in NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DEBUT

Kwita Izina Side events (Exhibitions and Fashion Shows) 

It is been about 7 years since the members of the collectiveRw/ Rwanda Fashion Week have been organizing side fashion shows and big showcasing in the gala dinners before and after Kwita Izina Ceremony. The Kwita Izina ceremony is among the top big event that brings together many people from all over the world. This has been a good platform for some of the local fashion designers to meet and sell at good prices to international guests and celebrities.

ALSO READ: Few local fashion designers were able to sell during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023

The ceremony itself is known to style the guests the same way who come to name gorillas in a traditional outfit” Umukenyero” which is made by local fashion houses.  Last year, it was expected that the CollectivRw/ Rwanda Fashion Week would organize side events like fashion shows or exhibitions which they didn’t.

Gorillas Namers wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

By RCFS's Media 

“ Cagua means to select, these kinds of clothes are not good for our level now. At least a jacket you can wear it but there are some other small clothes I don’t want to mention here even you, you know …..[people laughing ]” said His excellence President of the Republic of Rwanda Paul Kagame during a ceremony in Kigali in 2016, telling other government officials about the impacts of secondhand clothes on Rwanda’s economy. 

There are a lot of expectations in the Rwanda fashion industry in 2024. We are expecting to have big fashion shows, individual fashion designer shows, exhibitions, and Rwanda models on international marketing by WEBEST Model Management, Rwanda’s leading modeling agency to send models to big international fashion weeks. Before we go to our expectations for this year, let’s look back at the journey of the Made in Rwanda movement and the ban on second-hand clothes.

A collection made by Rwanda clothing  (PHOTO RWANDA CLOTHING)

Before banning second-hand clothes in Rwanda No-one could believe that these luxury clothes on the African continent would soon be banned in the land of 1000 hills because there were so many businesses of second-hand clothes and even people were already integrated a culture of selling them walking around the streets in the capital city Kigali and other parts of the country’s cities.

People selling second-hand clothes in Kigali (PHOTO INTERNET)

Between 2016 and 2017 is the period Rwandans will never forget because it was the time the government took strong measures to decrease the import of second-hand clothes. Some of these measures impacted many people especially those who were used to making a living from selling second-hand clothes.

On the other hand, this was a moment for Rwandan creators and entrepreneurs to invest in fashion businesses. In 2017 Made in Rwanda policy was created by the Ministry of Trade and Industry. This policy is aligned with Rwanda’s aspiration to become an upper middle income country by 2035 and higher income by 2050. It is recognized its contribution to meeting these targets will ensure Rwanda moves into the lower middle-income category, given its potential to contribute both to Rwanda’s economic growth in general and the trade balance in particular, as well as to productive employment.

“Many of us were born and found second-hand clothes here. We can’t just ban them because there are many people who benefit from them. Let’s find what else to give them before we totally ban second-hand clothes” added His excellence President of the Republic of Rwanda Paul Kagame during a ceremony in Kigali in 2016, telling other government officials about the impacts of second-hand clothes on Rwanda’s economy. 

Inside Uzuri K & Y: The brand is known for making good shoes mostly for women  (PHOTO UZURI K & Y)

Contribution of fashion shows in strengthening the fashion industry in Rwanda 

Before banning second-hand clothes, Rwanda's government knew it would be possible to ban second-hand clothes because many Rwandans were already convinced about wearing locally made clothes such as Kitenge. According to the expert in fashion and textile industry, some institutions were already working with startups in the movement of wear Made in Rwanda which made it possible

Women in Rwanda wearing outfits made from Kitenge in the Southern Province (PHOTO ERIC)

“MINICOM- was working with several fashion designers and PSF was working with other designers, then later the RDB did the same. Look at the fashion show events. The first fashion shows were organized between 2012 and 2015, these shows were like a school, it was not just to present a collection on the runway, It was also teaching Rwandans how to style. I remember many ministers were attending fashion shows in Kigali and they knew it is possible to continue building and promoting made in Rwanda products especially locally made clothes” A fashion Experts told the RCFS’s Media

In a blue dress, Madam Julienne Uwacu a Minister of Sports and Culture (MINISPOC) during the RCFS 2015 at the Milles Collines Hotel in Kigali

The Role of Kigali Fashion Week 

Kigali Fashion Week (KFW) was founded in 2012 by John Bunyeshuli with the aim to help fashion designers showcase their designs, promoting Made in Rwanda and creating new modeling agencies in Kigali. Since then, many young and upcoming fashion designers started to dream bigger and bigger.  The KFW helped many local fashion designers to get established and learn more about fashion shows and how to be prepared before showcasing in events.

Models on the runway during the Kigali Fashion Week 2012 (PHOTO KFW)

Through the KFW many Rwandans were inspired and many people started to look outside the box and have different perspectives on second-hand clothes. The KFW helped some local fashion designers to showcase in the international fashion weeks in Europe.

The Role of Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show 

The Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show (RCFS) was founded in 2013 by Celestin Ntawirema which is a forum for local and international culture fashion designers to showcase their designs. It is unique by featuring designs from a variety of cultures. The RCFS came with a unique concept and reminded Rwandans about their history in cultural fashion styling where this event showcased early outfits made in backcloth and animal skins that Rwandans used to wear before the secondhand clothes arrived on the soil of Rwanda.

Models in the runway in the RCFS2014 inside the stadium in Kigali (PHOTO RCFS)

Between 2014 and 2017 the RCFS invited many international fashion designers and models to come to showcase in Kigali which was a great inspiration to other local fashion entrepreneurs to meet and learn from the international fashion entrepreneurs.

Tanzanian fashion designer Makeke International showcasing in the RCFS 2019 (PHOTO RCFS)

What to expect in the 2024 fashion industry in Rwanda

Kigali city is becoming a vibrant city in Africa where many big conferences and summits are taking place in Rwanda. This gives a chance to event organizers to create events alongside these conferences and summits. In our expectation for 2024;  fashion designers, fashion shows, modeling, and exhibitions.  

Fashion designers 

 In terms of fashion designers, according to the performance of the last year 2023, many local fashion designers are ready to continue to create new collections. On their Instagram pages, the updates show that designers' efforts have been increased. These are the top 11 fashion designers who are creating more products in Rwanda:

1. Rwanda Clothing

Made by Rwanda Clothing (PHOTO RC)

2. Mille Collines

Made by Mille Collines (PHOTO MC)

3. Uzuri K & Y

Made by Uziri K & Y (PHOTO K&Y)

4. Moshions

Made by Moshions (PHOTO MOSHIONS)

5. Matheo Studio

Made by Matheo Studio (PHOTO MATHEO)

6. Inkanda House

Made by Inkanda House  (PHOTO INKANDA)

7. Tanga Designs

Made by Tanga Designs (PHOTO TANGA)

8. Haute Baso

Made by Haute Baso (PHOTO HAUTE BASO)

9. Dokmai Rwanda

Made by Dokmai Rwanda. (PHOTO DOKMAI)

10. Sonia Mugabo

Made by Sonia Mugabo (PHOTO SONIA)

11. House of Tayo

Made by House of Tayo (PHOTO HT)

Fashion shows

There are more than 5 big fashion show events in Rwanda; Kigali Fashion Week, Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show, CollectiveRw/Rwanda Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week, Rwanda Modesty Fashion Show, and the three new upcoming events; The Stage Fashion Showcase, Gorilla Fashion Week, and the RIDI Dance and Fashion Show.

Model on the runway during the Rwanda Fashion Week 2022 (PHOTO RFW)

It is hard to say when some of these fashion weeks are scheduled in 2024 because some of them were impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic and some were closed temporarily. However, with the information the RCFS’s Media has, some of these events such as The Stage Fashion Showcase, Kigali Fashion Week, Mercedes Ben Kigali Fashion Week, and the CollectiveRw/Rwanda Fashion Week are going to happen this year. 

Models on the runway during the Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week  2022 (PHOTO MBKFW)

Rwanda Models on the International Market

Modeling business in Rwanda is among the growing sectors in the fashion industry. There are more than 20 modeling agencies across the country. The leading modeling agency is WEBEST Model Management which was founded by former models Franco Kabano and Sara Cyntia. The WEBEST agency has been sending models to different international fashion weeks such as Paris Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and New York Fashion Week.

WEBEST Model in PARIS FASHION WEEK ss24

WEBEST Model in MILAN FASHION WEEK ss24

According to the management of WEBEST Model Management, this year is going to be as good as the past 3 years ago as they have enough connections to find jobs for their models.  

“Next year is going to be good for us and our models of course. We have already established good connections with international agents. We have a calendar and we know when some of these fashion weeks are going to happen soon, we will tell more about our 2024 contracts and transfers” said the WEBEST Model Management during an interview last year in 2023

WEBEST Model in NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DEBUT

Kwita Izina Side events (Exhibitions and Fashion Shows) 

It is been about 7 years since the members of the collectiveRw/ Rwanda Fashion Week have been organizing side fashion shows and big showcasing in the gala dinners before and after Kwita Izina Ceremony. The Kwita Izina ceremony is among the top big event that brings together many people from all over the world. This has been a good platform for some of the local fashion designers to meet and sell at good prices to international guests and celebrities.

ALSO READ: Few local fashion designers were able to sell during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023

The ceremony itself is known to style the guests the same way who come to name gorillas in a traditional outfit” Umukenyero” which is made by local fashion houses.  Last year, it was expected that the CollectivRw/ Rwanda Fashion Week would organize side events like fashion shows or exhibitions which they didn’t.

Gorillas Namers wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

Gorillas Namer wearing Umucyenyero during the Kwita Izina Ceremony 2023 - Made by Rwanda Clothing  (PHOTO RC)

By RCFS's Media 

“I was a model for a very long time, so in the journey of modeling, I became a fashion show producer. So, when I was a model, I saw the need for fashion show production. Because many Years ago I had a modeling agency called black dust, I had models but they had no work. I had to create jobs for them” former Kenyan model Ingred AWUOR told the RCFS’s Media during the interview in Nairobi

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

Fashion Industry in the East African countries is growing faster. This is seen through the number of local fashion designers already established in member countries. Some data from different sources state that in Kenya there are more than 150 local fashion designers with more than 30 who are well known fashion designers both locally and internationally. Walking around in Nairobi, you can see Kenyans adapting to wearing locally made clothes. It is clear that the fashion industry in Kenya is growing and continues to develop day by day.

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

ALSO READ: 6 Kenyan Dominating Fashion Designers in 2023

There are many people and institutions who are making this Kenyan fashion industry grow and develop. These include women who continue to make the industry alive in the capital city Nairobi and other parts of the country by bringing unique ideas into the fashion industry. Ms Ingred Awuor is among the longest fashion entrepreneurs in Kenya who started as a model then to model coach, to fashion producer, and to become a fashion designer. The former model is the CEO and founder of the Jazz and Fashion Experience and she is also Creative Director at Nilotika clothing brand based in Nairobi.

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

 During the interview with the RCFS’Media Ms Ingred took us on her journey from being a model to becoming a fashion show producer and own a fashion brand. Our journalist asked her some questions about her journey and what advice to other women who dream of becoming future fashion show producers in Africa and other parts of the world.

Journalist: Who is Ingred in terms of fashion, what are your favorite colors? 

In fashion, I have many favorite colors. I don’t even have my favorite colors, by the way, I am very diverse. I can not say I love red, I can't say I love.. because today you will find me in black and tomorrow you will find me in red and the other day you will find me in white. So I enjoy playing with colors, I don't have my favorite colors. 

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

Journalist: As a woman fashion show producer. What challenges do you face in your career and how do you overcome them? 

It is a lot of challenges, first of all, the main challenge is to get sponsorship. If you are doing fashion show production, a fashion show should be a tool of marketing, so this tool of marketing is the tool that you need to share with corporate, companies and sponsors because you can't do it alone. So, it is hard to convince a sponsor to see your fashion show as a tool of marketing. This is the first challenge I am dealing with as a fashion show producer. Because you need to show the brand that this is the marketing exposure for you and they need to believe in you. so getting sponsorship is challenging sometimes. 

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

 Journalist: How do you see the Kenyan fashion industry in terms of uniqueness and creativity? 

I think right now where we are at, we have a movement called MADE IN KENYA, buy Kenya, wear Kenya. Where we are I can see fashion designers putting their efforts into creating unique collections. I can also see a lot of Kenyans continue to embrace that it is okay for me to wear an outfit made in Kenya rather than importing an outfit.  So we are in a position where Kenyan fashion designers are showing a lot of creativity and a lot of hard work. Actually, most of my outfits in Walldrob are made in Kenya. 

Model on the runway, during the Jazz and Fashion Experience 2023 in Nairobi (PHOTO JFE)

Call for fashion designers to showcase in the Jazz and Fashion Experience 2024

 [ LISTEN TO A FULL PODCAST WITH INGRED AWUOR HERE ]

Journalist: What advice can you share with African women who dream of becoming future fashion show producers? 

First, it is the mindset. You have to believe it before you achieve it. forget about your gender, forget about your background, and forget about who people think you are. So believe it, think about what you want to do, and believe in that thing you want to do. and go for that thing and start small. Star with what you have. I believe that nothing is unachievable 

Ingred Awuor former Kenyan model, CEO, and founder of Jazz and Fashion Experience and Creative Director at NILOTIKA clothing brand (PHOTO INGRED) 

By RCFS's MEDIA 

" I would not judge these upcoming fashion shows that we had in 2023 because most of them didn't have enough budget to hire good lighting. No sponsors in fashion shows and this is a big issue for the fashion industry in general" An entertainment Journalist from the RBA told the RCFS's Media 

Lighting plays a crucial role in fashion shows. It is one of the main tools to make a fashion show look more attractive to the audience who purchase tickets to watch a runway show. For the most, good lighting is very important for fashion designers and runway models while showcasing different collections on the runway to make sure the outfits are well seen by the audience.

Good lighting is very important for a fashion show [Photo Rwanda Cultural Fashion Show 2015]

Why is good lighting extremely important for a fashion show?

During the runway show, the lights play various roles such as highlighting garments that accentuate the details, colors, and textures of the clothing. It helps the audience appreciate the craftsmanship and design elements of each garment. Good lighting also sets the tone and ambiance of the show which creates a dramatic or intimate atmosphere, aligning with the designer's vision for the collection. 

Professional lighting helps garments to be seen all as it is in colors and shapes [Photo Kigali Fashion Week 2015]

Furthermore, proper lighting is essential for capturing high-quality images and videos of the fashion show for photographers and videographers. It ensures that the garments and models are well-illuminated, making them more appealing for promotional purposes.  

Why are fashion show events in Rwanda facing lighting and stage issues?

 The year 2023 reminded event organizers and managers especially fashion show events the importance of having proper lighting and a good stage setup. Many people commented on the 2023 fashion shows in Rwanda. These include fashion enthusiasts, event organizers, and entertainment journalists who told the RCFS's Media that they were reminded to compare the quality of the 5 years ago fashion show events to the 2023 fashion shows.

 Let's be honest fashion show events in Rwanda are going backward compared to the fashion shows that had been taking place in the years of 2015 and 2018. The quality of their stage setups, the lighting, and sponsorship is poor" An event organizer in Kigali told the RCFS's Media 

Last year, Kigali the capital city hosted 4 fashion shows;  the Stage Fashion Showcase 2023,  Kigali Fashion Week 2023,  RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023, and Gorilla Fashion Week 2023. The interesting part of the 2023 fashion show events, out of these 4 fashion shows, two of them happened on the same day which was the last Saturday of the year. On the evening of 30 December, the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 kicked off at Onomo Hotel Kigali while the Gorilla Fashion Week 2023 took place at Century Park Hotel.  

Photo: RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 at Onomo Hotel, in Kigali

Photo: Gorilla Fashion Week 2023 at Century Park Hotel, in Kigali

Before these two fashion shows, in May we had the Stage Fashion Showcase which took place at the Marriot Hotel Kigali. This upcoming fashion event was highly organized with more than 7 well-organized fashion designers both local and international. However, the number of attended audiences was not as it was expected according to the organizers and commentators who talked to the RCFS's Media about the last year's fashion show events. 

Photo: The Stage Fashion Showcase 2023 at Marriott Hotel in Kigali

Another fashion show event that occurred in 2023 was the Kigali Fashion Week which took place at the BK Arena, on 15th December where new collaborations between farmers and fashion designers showcased a very attractive show where a combination of flowers and fashion impressed the audience.

Photo: Kigali Fashion Week 2023 at BK Arena in Kigali 

ALSO READ: THE UNIQUENESS OF COMBINING A FASHION SHOW WITH FLOWERS BY THE KIGALI FASHION WEEK 2023

Even though some of these fashion events still surviving especially the Kigali Fashion Week which was founded in 2012 but people who talked to the RCFS's Media said that things are going backward;

" Try to check the photos of the CollectiveRw/ Rwanda Fashion Week editions and even Mercedes Benz Kigali Fashion Week editions. It is totally different. I was expecting the Gorilla Fashion Week to be a big fashion week but the last 1 hour before the show ended, many people were already left. Their stage set up was not really convincing" a fashion enthusiast told the RCFS's Media 

Photo: Gorilla Fashion Week 2023 

It is clear that fashion shows without proper lighting miss uniqueness as well as the memorable from fashion lovers or audiences. Not only the lithing making a fashion show looking good but also a good stage. A good stage in a fashion show is critical for several reasons; It enhancespresentation and serves as the focal point where models showcase the designer's creations. A well-designed stage provides a platform that amplifies the aesthetic appeal of the garments. The stage design, including its backdrop, props, and overall setup, can reflect the brand's identity and the theme of the collection. It reinforces the narrative or inspiration behind the designs. 

Photo: Rwanda Fashion Week 2022

Photo: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kigali

" I want to tell these new and upcoming fashion show organizers to think twice before organizing a fashion show. No matter what your fashion event has its requirements. Don't just call fashion designers before you are sure that you have all you need and that is the money" An event organizer in Kigali told the RCFS's Media

Photo: Kigali Fashion Week 2023 is the only event that built a stage in 2023

Rwanda's fashion industry was doing well before the COVID-19 pandemic but the industry was impacted in all its sectors from fashion designers, and models as well as fashion show event organizers. According to the Africa Development Bank, the disruption of the COVID-19 pandemic on global value chains and its impact on African businesses is already evident. As factories close their doors and border closures and travel restrictions interrupt supply chains, the workers - the most vulnerable and lowest-paid people in the fashion supply chain – have been left to feel the worst effects.

 Ms. Oliva Umuhire is a fashion lover who lives in Kigali, she thinks that the Rwanda government needs to bring its input as the fashion industry continues to struggle with the impacts of the COVID-19

" Fashion entrepreneurs are doing the best they can to keep fashion and made in Rwanda alive. However, I don't see how the fashion industry can continue to survive without the government being involved in one way or another. For Example, Kigali Fashion Week used to be a big show that made Kigalians love fashion and have curiosity about fashion in general. I remember their show in 2015" Ms Umuhire told the RCFS's Media

Photo: Kigali Fashion Week 2015

Other people see the lack of collaboration among local fashion designers and fashion entrepreneurs as the source of not being able to escape from COVID-19's impacts.

"Everyone wants to work individually which is fine but to have good fashion shows in the future, Let's say instead of having many small fashion shows why not collaborate to host one fashion week that can bring all fashion designers together as well as the fashion entrepreneurs such event organizers, and models. They need to come together to find solutions for their issues which I believe will bring impact as union produce more force " said Ms. Moniah Uwimbabazi an expert in a fashion fashion show and event management 

Photo: The Stage Fashion Showcase 2023

ALSO READ: INTERNATIONAL MODEL EVELINE GONZENBACH TO BOOST FASHION AND MODELING INDUSTRY IN RWANDA

 By the RCFS's Media 

"Select the one that resonates with your style and captures the essence of your dressing greatness" by Franco Kabano, Rwanda's former and professional model 

Franco Kabano styling the new collection 2024 made by Matheo Studio 

Through his Facebook Page, Mr. Franco Kabano shared his 10 fashion tips dedicated to his followers and fashion lovers in general. The former model has been partnering with many different local fashion designers to promote their new collections as well as his personal orders as he is one the top male fashionable models Rwanda has ever had.

Franco Kabano styling the new collection 2024 made by Matheo Studio 

Since 2022, Mr. Franco started working and partnering with Matheo Studio founded by Maurice Matheo. This is a luxury clothing brand based in Rwanda that has been raising emotions because of its unique creativity behind clothes made by Matheo Studio. 

ALSO READ: WHERE DO MATHEO AND FRANCO GET THOSE FASHION IDEAS? 50 FASHION TRENDING STYLES IN RWANDA

These are 10 fashion tips by Kabano Franco mixed with the unique collections styled by Maurice Matheo creative Director at Matheo Studio. 

1. Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable and style is more about being yourself.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio 

2. Life’s too short to wear boring clothes.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio

3. Dressed to impress? Nah, dressed to feel awesome.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio

4. Elegance is the only beauty that never fades.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2022 made by Matheo Studio

5. Confidence is the best outfit, rock it, own it.

Franco Kabano styling (black and white boots)  collection 2022 made by Matheo Studio

6. Dress how you want to be addressed.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio

7. Clothes aren’t going to change the world, but the person wearing them might.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio

8. Fashion is an instant language, let your style speak volumes.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2023 made by Matheo Studio

9. Wearing my confidence, accessorized with a strong face.

Franco Kabano styling collection 2022 made by Matheo Studio

10. Fashion is art, and you are the canvas.

Franco Kabano styling the new collection 2024 made by Matheo Studio

ALSO READ: It is Summertime in the USA " Rwanda's popular and fashionable male model in shorts

The RCFS's Media 

Cheap China-made African print wax brands have been present in markets on the continent for decades, initially as badly-made replicas, but increasingly, as high-quality alternatives.

Accra, Ghana – On a weekday this December, the fabrics section at Accra’s frenzied Makola market was unusually quiet for the festive end-of-year period. Female traders with big woven hats sat in front of their stalls chatting and tiredly swatting away flies. Behind them, colourful African wax textiles were stacked in rows from ground to ceiling, waiting to be bought.

Vida Yeboah, one of the traders, said the stalls would normally be teeming with customers hunting for the latest designs to take to their tailors to cut up and sew into different styles from wide-mouthed A-Line dresses, to tops and skirts, for the New Year festivities. But Ghana’s shaky economy has forced many to shun that tradition.

“Since COVID, schools have started resuming in December and that means most people are thinking of how their sons and daughters would go to school,” the 55-year-old said. Schools are usually on holiday in December, but schedules for many schools changed after the long pandemic break. “Now, there is no money. People prefer to spend on other things, or they will go and buy the small ones.”

The ‘small’ brands Yeboah refers to are the much cheaper versions of African wax print that have flooded markets in Ghana and across Africa for years now, and that are giving “original” manufacturers tough competition. Imported from China, the fabrics often carry designs imitating more established brands and sell for between a third, to a tenth of the price. Some are outright counterfeits, claiming in typo-ridden labels to be recognisable brands.

But although these Chinese-made fabrics get a bad rap, some say they are increasingly of good quality, with their gaudy designs becoming more chic, and their colours no longer fading after a wash.

“Some people say it is good,” Yeboah said. “That original is too costly, even I myself, I don’t sell it,” she added, pointing to her stock. She sells Hitarget, a popular China-made brand seen as a high quality, cheaper alternative to big names, and that’s way ahead in the “smalls” range.

“This one is 90 cedis ($8), people can afford that one,” Yeboah said, picking up a blue and orange print with geometric designs. “If one doesn’t have the money for big ones, the person will at least buy something before leaving the market.”

A section of Ankara fabric at Makola market, Accra, Ghana [Shola Lawal/Al Jazeera]

Made in the Netherlands, loved in Africa

Known mostly as Ankara, the origins of the colourful fabric that has come to embody the very essence of African-ness on the continent, and for diasporans looking to stay connected to their roots, is not African itself.

The material was born when Dutch tradesmen in the 1800s attempted to mechanically mass-produce the intricate, hand-made designs of Javanese batik prints native to the Dutch East Indies, now Indonesia. The designs, made with a wax-resist dyeing method that left equal colour intensity on both sides of plain cotton spreads, didn’t catch on. But European printers soon found that their invention was getting unexpected attention somewhere else – in Africa.

Several Europeans including 22-year-old Pieter Fentener van Vlissingen, a Dutch manufacturer, started to produce the material in bales, cutting them up by the yard, and shipping them to bustling cities like Accra, where traders from other countries would travel to buy them. The myth goes that the name “Ankara” came from Hausa traders across West Africa attempting to call the fabric by where they bought it from – Accra.

In West and Central Africa, the boldly coloured cloth kickstarted a style revolution. People, especially women, wore the material everywhere – weddings, naming ceremonies, burials. Soon, the new fabric edged out indigenous materials like the earthy blue tye-dye Adire of the Yorubas in Nigeria and the flashy, hand-woven Kente of the Ashanti and Ewes of Ghana, which were heavier and not suitable for everyday wear like Ankara.

Vlissengen’s company was at the forefront of the new era.

“African women just embraced it,” Perry Oosting, the CEO of Vlissengen’s company, now called Vlisco, told Al Jazeera from the Helmond office. “They loved the brighter colors and they saw that the quality was better than what was available in the market compared to other imported goods, so that’s how it started. They embraced it and they also gave stories to it.”

After 177 years, the brand has gone on to become the most popular wax print maker on the continent, painting itself as the ‘original’ luxury brand, amid a sea of fake and counterfeit China-made copies. Six yards of Vlisco costs as high as 220 cedis ($200) but imitations cost much less. That though, Oosting said, could be to the brand’s advantage

“If you’re successful, you’re being copied, and it keeps us alert to continue to innovate and to be creative,” Oosting said. Vlisco, the CEO added, has no plans to lower prices, despite Ghana’s tight economy, soaring inflation in Nigeria, and the weakening of the Congolese Franc. Instead, it has invested in trademarking its designs using QR codes and has even trained customs officers in the Democratic Republic of Congo, a major market for the brand, to spot counterfeits.

“We’ve been through so much over the years, we’ve seen coup d’etats and actually, we have built some resilience,” Oosting said, adding that the pandemic, and the Ebola outbreaks that wracked the DRC were one of the brand’s toughest times. “What we are not doing is starting to discount because we have our product DNA that needs to be secured. Yes, the market is difficult but we want to keep our quality because we are not here for the next six months, we are here for the next decade, the next century.”

A man selling unsewn fabrics locally known as ‘Ankara’ walks through a street at Agege district in Lagos, Nigeria June 22, 2016 [Akintunde Akinleye/Reuters]

The Nana Benz era

In those early days of the African wax print, entrepreneurial African women worked with European manufacturers like Vlisco to come up with beautiful new patterns that also carried meaning and that the women bought exclusive distribution rights to.

In Togo, where the market had moved to because of Kwame Nkrumah’s protectionist policies in Ghana, the “Nana Benzes” became particularly skilled at monopolising prints. The group of several women traders were crucial to the success of Vlisco.

“We got so much feedback from the market through them,” Oosting of Vlisco said. “They were not just business partners, they were partners.”

Nana Benzes went on to be so successful between the 1960s – 1980s that they became some of the first female millionaires in Togo, the only ones able to afford luxurious Mercedes Benz cars, thus earning them their nicknames.

Now though, the Nana Benzes have been forgotten as Ankara production has moved to China.

So, too, have the local wax print brands that crept up in the mid-20th century – Africa’s independence era – in an attempt to localise the production of Ankara, to claim it fully as African and break the domination of European printers like Vlisco which still produces in the Netherlands.

In 1966, Ghana launched the Ghana Textiles Printing Company (GTP), with the government having majority stake. Around the same time, Akosombo Textiles Limited (ATL), particularly popular for its Adinkra symbols borrowed from the Gyamans ethnic group, also came on the scene. In Nigeria, the United Nigerian Textile Mills (UNTL) partnered with the Cha Group in Hong Kong to open a mill in northern Kaduna state. In Ivory Coast, Uniwax was birthed – a partnership between the Ivorian government and Unilever, the British consumer goods manufacturer.

But a cocktail of issues including government policies, counterfeits, a lack of infrastructure and the unavailability of locally sourced cotton, forced many printers to shutter or sell out, costing hundreds of textile workers their jobs.

GTP and Uniwax are now subsidiaries of Vlisco. Oostings of Vlisco says although its subsidiaries produce locally, Vlisco itself has no immediate plans to move manufacturing from Helmond to the continent.

Some brands are aiming to once again localise production but face similar issues.

Lome’s Wina Wax is designed locally but manufactured in China because of a lack of electricity, Marlene Adanlete-Djondo, the founder and a Nana Benz descendant, told Jeune Afrique. Producing in China is an attempt to adapt at all costs, while offering reasonable prices.

“Uniwax in Côte d’Ivoire and GTP in Ghana were bought by Vlisco certainly due to a lack of financial contributions,” Adanlete-Djondo said. “We do not want such a future for Wina Wax.”

Soft to the touch

As all sorts of smalls flood the market, it’s harder to distinguish between which is a good small or which is a bad small.

In Makola, young women arrange rolled-up “Smalls” on flat trays balanced on their heads and hawk them around. All the brands carry words like “Guaranteed” or “Real wax” on their edges.

But Augustina Otoo, a fashion designer in Accra said it’s the feel of the Ankara fabric, the flexibility of it, that often tells which ones are high quality and which ones are substandard, regardless of the name, brand or words printed on the cloth.

Most cheap imports use cheaper grades of cotton for production, and even mix the cotton with fabrics like polyester, whereas, authentic loinclothes are wholly cotton, Otoo, 26, added. Where quality Ankara fabric is soft to touch and yields under the heat of an iron, some smalls lack such mouldability, making them a pain to sew into the elaborate styles customers demand.

“Some of them are just like rubber, some of them even feel like paper,” Otoo said, laughing at her own analogy. “I’ve sewn a lot of them. When you’re ironing, it’s so stiff, it crumples. And when you want to straighten it, it just remains stiff. They put some shiny stuff on it that fades when you wash it. It doesn’t even last up to three months.”

But that hasn’t stopped her customers from buying them.

“This season especially, we’ve seen a lot of new designs in the small ones,” Otoo said. There’s little she can do to convince her customers to buy more authentic brands, she added. “Me, I just provide the service and collect my money.”

Source 

On its first edition, the RIFI Dance and Fashion 2023 surprised the audiences where fashion and dance met for the first time in Kigali. The event took place on Saturday, 30 December at the Onomo Hotel Kigali. It brought together local talented fashion designers, dancers, and models.

Made in Rwanda clothes were among those showcased at the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

After the event, Mr. Ri Koni Yocan the CEO and founder of RIFI Entertainment which is the organizer of the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 told the Inyarwanda newspaper that he was happy with the outcome and promised the second edition in this year 2024 to be even better than the 2023's edition.

Ri Kon Yocan CEO  and founder of the RIFI Fashion Agency the winner of Best Agency 2023 

"Our event went well even though it was a bit rainy for some hours. It was not 100% but we did it and all went well. I want to thank my team and everyone who participated in this year's edition. I also want to tell the audience that this year's edition will be even better than the 2023's edition" said Mr. Ri Koni Yocan the CEO and founder of RIFI Entertainment

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

ALSO READ: WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE RIFI DANCE AND FASHION SHOW 2023? THIS SATURDAY, 30 DECEMBER

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

 ALSO READ:  RIFI Fashion Agency is the number one modeling agency in Rwanda

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfits showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

Made in Rwanda outfit showcased during the RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

RIFI Dancing Crew /RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

RIFI Dancing Crew /RIFI Dance and Fashion Show 2023 (Photo Inyarwanda)

More photos from the show

 By the RCFS's MEDIA