Do East African Fashion Designers Understand Sustainable Fashion? A Fashion Expert Weighs In

Sustainable fashion has gained traction in many East African countries, with local designers increasingly aware of its importance. However, according to a fashion expert interviewed by RCFS's MEDIA, there's still a significant gap in understanding and implementing truly sustainable practices in the region's fashion industry.

Made from recycled fabrics by Maisha by Nisria a Kenyan fashion brand [Photo Credit: Maisha]

The expert, provided insights into the current state of sustainable fashion in East Africa, highlighting both progress and challenges. 

"East Africa comprises eight countries, each striving to boost and develop its fashion industry. Many upcoming designers in these countries are incredibly creative," the expert notes. "You'll see them repurposing various waste materials, creating fashionable items like shoes from tires, or upcycling second-hand clothes into new collections."

However, the expert cautions that these practices, while innovative, don't necessarily equate to comprehensive sustainable fashion. "Some of these examples lead our community to view these designers as sustainable, but there's still a long way to go. First, the community needs to understand what sustainable fashion truly entails to be part of that sustainability."

Made from recycled fabrics and materials by Cedrick Mizero a Rwandan fashion brand [Photo Credit: IG]

The expert emphasizes the need for a more holistic approach: "Sustainable and ethical fashion aims to minimize the industry's negative environmental impact while maximizing benefits to promote the ethical treatment of workers."

Made from recycled tires by Uzuri K & Y, a Rwandan  fashion brand [Photo Credit: UZURI]

Several East African countries are focusing on developing their local textile and garment industries, emphasizing fair labor practices and supporting local communities. Kenya, for instance, has over 50 fashion projects that integrate sustainable practices, including those of both designers and medium-sized textile manufacturers.

Made from recycled fabrics by Kenyan-Raw a Kenyan fashion brand [Photo Credit: IG]

"Among these 50 local fashion entrepreneurs, some buy second-hand clothes and make them wearable again. Should we call them sustainable fashion designers? I don't have a definitive answer to this question," the expert ponders, highlighting the complexity of defining sustainability in fashion.

Made from recycled fabrics by Maisha by Nisria a Kenyan fashion brand [Photo Credit: Maisha]

One of the main hurdles in promoting sustainable fashion in East Africa is the lack of environmental education. "To get to the root of sustainability, it's important to understand how people in East Africa are educated on the matter. Most public schools don't teach about environmental issues, so there's little awareness in the community," the expert explains.

Made from recycled fabrics by a Ugandan fashion brand [Photo Credit: IGC]

This lack of awareness extends to consumer behavior. "Africans are rarely penalized for littering or engaging in environmentally harmful practices. Many East Africans express that they don't deeply think about their consumer habits until they become well-traveled and highly educated."

The result is a challenging market for sustainable fashion. "Generally, fashion designers who try to push ethical fashion practices have a hard time doing so in societies that prefer fast fashion over high-quality and sustainable products," the expert notes.

Made from recycled fabrics by a Ugandan fashion brand [Photo Credit: IGC]

Well-established East African fashion designers interviewed by RCFS's MEDIA expressed challenges in maintaining ethical and sustainable brands, with pricing being a significant issue. Ethical fashion often involves higher costs due to fair worker compensation and the use of high-quality, durable materials.

"When fashion is sold at a reasonable price, workers can receive fair compensation for their work," one designer explains. "Ethical fashion uses long-lasting, reliable materials and is designed with skill and expertise to give consumers their money's worth. It's not cheap because good quality materials can be slightly expensive."

Made from recycled fabrics and materials by Cedrick Mizero a Rwandan fashion brand [Photo Credit: IG]

This pricing structure creates a dilemma: participating in an ethical fashion as a consumer could be a privilege that not many people can afford. Due to higher prices, consumers are less likely to engage with ethical fashion brands, creating a barrier to the widespread adoption of sustainable practices.

According to the Expert,  the East African fashion designers show creativity and innovation in their approach to sustainability. However, it’s clear the industry needs more comprehensive education and support systems to fully embrace sustainable fashion practices.

The East African fashion designers' creativity in sustainable fashion continues to increase [Photo Credit: IG]

To address these challenges and promote a better understanding of sustainable fashion in East Africa, industry stakeholders are taking action. Fashion Trends by the RCFS is organizing a virtual conference titled "The State of East African Fashion and Sustainable Practices." This event aims to bring together fashion entrepreneurs, enthusiasts, and industry professionals for an insightful discussion on regional trends and sustainable practices.

Attendees will have the opportunity to engage in live discussions, share their views, and ask questions directly to guest speakers and moderators.

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS