Kenyan Fashion Businesswoman Wandia Gichuru among the Forbes' 50 over 50: Global 2025 list

"Woke up to the incredible news that I've been included in Forbes' 50 over 50: Global 2025 list - where they list 50 women over the age of 50 that they consider to be doing important work. Thank you, Forbes," announced Wandia Gichuru.

She continued, "It is a HUGE honour - and I am also very much aware that the only reason for this recognition is the important work that Vivo and Shop Zetu are doing and the impact we are having in the African fashion industry and beyond."

According to Wandia Gichuru, this impact is only possible because of everyone in their wider ecosystem. "All of YOU," Wandia says.

Wandia Gichuru is known as a woman at the forefront of promoting and selling made-in-Kenya and East African products in fashion under the Vivo fashion group. Currently, she is the founder and chief executive of the Vivo Fashion Group.

Vivo Fashion Group's brands 

Historically, Gichuru and her business partner discovered an available space in a Nairobi mall and nervously signed a lease to open their first retail store. It was immediately a hit. Drawn by Vivo's leisure wear line at affordable prices, women in Nairobi suddenly had a place to go for clothing previously unavailable locally. The original Vivo store soon expanded from one to two, then four, and eventually seven stores. Today, Vivo has 25 stores across Kenya, Rwanda, and Uganda.

ALSO READ: Wandia Gichuru on Building a Fashion Business in Kenya and Beyond

The success was unlikely for several reasons, including that nobody before Gichuru had made women's clothes in Kenya widely accessible to Kenyan women. Originally an import business, Vivo gradually transformed into a full-on fashion brand that designs and manufactures all of its own clothing.

Inside the Vivo Women shop, in Atlanta, US [Photo Credit: Vivo]

Showing her happiness at being among the Forbes' 50 over 50: Global 2025 list, Wandia Gichuru spoke about her team and staff members who made it possible: "Our team of almost 500 staff. Our customer base of over 100,000 customers. Our suppliers. Our partners. Our friends. Our advisers. Our investors. Our worthy rivals. Our cheerleaders. And yes - even our haters! Every single one of you plays a critical part of our growth and our learning, and for that we are deeply grateful."

Wandia Gichuru greeting H.E William Ruto the president of the Republic of Kenya after the official opening of the Vivo Women US in 2024 [Photo Credit: Vivo]

Besides this recognition in the Forbes' 50 over 50: Global 2025 list, Wandia Gichuru has been featured in many other notable initiatives, magazines, and awards. This includes the BOF 500, where she was highlighted as the Kenyan entrepreneur behind the high-street fashion giant Vivo, which has expanded her retail empire to other African markets and the US.

"There are many days when it is hard to see the impact we are having. But today isn't going to be one of those days!" Gichuru said. "Today we are going to let ourselves be both proud of and grateful for whatever strides we are making, even as we aim to keep learning and keep improving. So from the bottom of our hearts, I thank you for being part of our journey. You make it all possible and you make it all worthwhile."

[4th from the right] Wandia Gichuru  is among the top African women who support many other women in the fashion sector  (Photo Credit; Vivo)

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

Rgat Afewerki Ybrah: Miss World Ethiopia 2023 and Her Mission of Empowerment

At the Hub of Africa Fashion Week 2025, Miss World Ethiopia 2023 Rgat Afewerki Ybrah made a stunning appearance, captivating attendees with her fashionable dress and powerful presence. The event, celebrating its 14th edition in Addis Ababa, showcased the creativity of young Ethiopian designers and highlighted the intersection of fashion and social impact.

 Miss World Ethiopia 2023 Rgat Afewerki Ybrah made a stunning appearance at the Hub of Africa Fashion Week 2025 [Photo Credit: RAY]

As a beauty pageant title holder, Rgat's mission extends far beyond the runway. Her "Beauty with a Purpose" project is a comprehensive initiative addressing critical social challenges faced by Ethiopian women and children. Her journey began in her hometown of Adwa, where she witnessed children, especially girls, walking miles barefoot to attend school.

ALSO READ: THE BUSINESS OF FASHION – TRADING IN AFRICA & BEYOND 2025: DISCUSSIONS TO TAKE PLACE IN ETHIOPIA

Education became her first mission. Recognizing the transformative power of learning, Rgat advocates for accessible and quality education, ensuring that every child, regardless of their circumstances, can pursue their potential. Her approach goes beyond mere observation, actively working to create pathways for educational opportunity.

Miss Rgat helping a woman to collect firewood in a village in Ethiopia [Photo Credit: RAY]

Menstrual health emerged as another critical focus. Breaking cultural taboos, Rgat distributed reusable sanitary pads and conducted educational workshops about menstrual hygiene. This initiative was about more than providing resources; it was about restoring dignity and confidence to young girls, empowering them to manage their health without shame.

Her advocacy extends to highlighting the challenges faced by women in rural communities. In the Entoto Mountains, she encountered Sape, a pregnant woman carrying firewood, symbolizing the daily struggles of countless Ethiopian women. Rgat's work aims to draw attention to these "Women of Burden," seeking sustainable solutions to alleviate their physical and mental challenges.

Miss Rgat carrying firewood in a village in Ethiopia [Photo Credit: RAY]

Cultural preservation and respect form another crucial aspect of her mission. Visiting the Mursi Tribe, Rgat celebrated their unique traditions, particularly the cultural significance of lip plates. Her approach demonstrates a nuanced understanding of cultural diversity, championing respect and acceptance while honoring indigenous practices.

Cultural preservation and respect form another crucial aspect of her mission [ Photo Credit: RAY]

"My Beauty with a Purpose project is a mosaic of Ethiopian women's strength," Rgat explains. "It's about amplifying voices, acknowledging struggles, and creating opportunities for dreams to flourish."

Miss World Ethiopia 2023 Rgat Afewerki Ybrah made a stunning appearance at the Hub of Africa Fashion Week 2025 [Photo Credit: RAY]

The Hub of Africa Fashion Show provided a perfect platform for Rgat to showcase not just her personal style, but her commitment to social change. Her presence represents a powerful narrative of beauty that transcends physical appearance, embodying intellect, compassion, and a deep commitment to community transformation. 

Miss World Ethiopia 2023 Rgat Afewerki Ybrah made a stunning appearance at the Hub of Africa Fashion Week 2025 [Photo Credit: RAY]

"Last night at the HUB of Africa Fashion Show, I had the honor of witnessing the brilliance of young Ethiopian designers unfold on the runway. Each collection told a unique story, reflecting creativity and passion. A huge bravo to Mahlet for orchestrating such a fantastic event" said Rgat Afewerki 

Miss World Ethiopia 2023 Rgat Afewerki Ybrah made a stunning appearance at the Hub of Africa Fashion Week 2025 [Photo Credit: RAY]

 Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

Ethiopia's Capacity for Fashion Programme Consulting: British Council and Creative DNA Initiative

The British Council Arts Programmes in East Africa has announced an open call for a Fashion Programme Consultant for its third cohort of the Creative DNA Ethiopia program, seeking a strategic professional to lead a groundbreaking initiative in the country's emerging creative industry.

"Our Creative DNA fashion program is back, and we're seeking a creative organization or consultant based in Ethiopia's fashion sector to drive this transformative initiative," wrote the British Council Arts Programmes in East Africa

The 2025 Creative DNA Ethiopia program, part of the British Council's Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) Arts Creative Economy Programme, aims to harness global creative insights to empower designers and build sustainable creative economies. This year's program will focus on comprehensive support for fashion professionals, including:

- A 6-week business incubator program

- Networking and market access opportunities

- Creative technology integration

- Workshop facilitation

- Microgrant management

The ideal Fashion Programme Consultant must possess a complex skill set, including:

- Deep fashion industry knowledge

- Advanced trend analysis capabilities

- Digital design software proficiency

- Exceptional communication skills

- Robust project management experience

- Cultural sensitivity and global perspective

Sandra Chege, British Council's Head of Arts for Kenya and East Africa, 2023 emphasized the program's broader mission: "Fashion is a critical pillar in creating understanding between the UK and the wider world, fostering international connections and trust."

Collection by the DAGMAWIT's unique designs blends traditional techniques with modern aesthetics, creating beautiful garments that honor cultural diversity and promote sustainable fashion practices.

The program encourages designers to explore their cultural heritage, local traditions, and personal identity while communicating design perspectives globally. Interested professionals can apply for this transformative role by February 7, 2025. The selected consultant will play a crucial part in scaling innovation within Ethiopia's creative industry.

Ethiopia's emerging design education and creative industries, supported by institutions like Addis Ababa University, provide a promising foundation for this ambitious program. By integrating local expertise with international best practices, the British Council aims to catalyze sustainable growth in the fashion sector.

Now the question is, who will win this position; Ethiopian or Outsider? The answer is in the hands of the British Council Arts Programmes in East Africa and its partners.

 Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

Leading Turkish companies will showcase their innovations under the Turkish Pavilion at Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week (ASFW) 2025 in Nairobi, marking a significant step in strengthening trade relations between Turkey and Africa's burgeoning fashion market. The announcement, made today by ASFW 2025 organizers, highlights Turkey's renowned expertise in textiles, leather, and fashion innovation.

Made in Turkey Fabrics [Photo Credit: AA Photo]

The upcoming exhibition promises to be a cornerstone event for Africa's fashion and textile industry, bringing together continental businesses, vendors, exhibitors, and experts in leather and textiles, alongside fashion designers and industry professionals. The Turkish delegation will present their latest advances in garment manufacturing, sustainable leather production, and cutting-edge textile technologies, offering valuable opportunities for local companies to explore new sourcing options and partnerships.

ASFW 2025 Nairobi continues to serve as the region's premier trade fair, attracting decision-makers and industry leaders from across the globe. The event covers a comprehensive range of product categories, including fabrics, fashion, technology, home décor, leather, footwear, and related services. Exhibitors will have the opportunity to connect with target groups from retail, interior decoration, design, fashion, accessories, and manufacturing sectors.

"As an exhibitor at Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week Nairobi, participants will witness firsthand how this leading international trade fair sets benchmarks for the entire sector," stated the event organizers. The exhibition's international visitor profile and high proportion of decision-makers make it an essential indicator of industry trends and opportunities.

Turkish Textile Heritage and Modern Innovation

Turkey's textile industry represents a perfect blend of historical craftsmanship and modern innovation. The country's rich textile heritage encompasses not only functional products but also cultural artifacts that have become integral to global fashion narratives. From luxurious carpets to intricate embroidery, Turkish textiles continue to captivate international markets with their distinctive style and quality.

The strength of Turkish textile production lies in its use of premium natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. These materials undergo careful processing to create durable and aesthetically pleasing fabrics. Cotton, known for its comfort, is widely used in everyday products like towels and bed linens. Silk, with its lustrous appearance and soft texture, is preferred for scarves and high-end garments. Local wool, sourced from Turkish sheep, provides the foundation for the country's world-renowned carpets and kilims, known for their durability and comfort.

A woman stands amid a mountain of cotton after harvesting in Antalya, southern Turkey, [AA Photo]

Contemporary Turkish designers are successfully bridging traditional techniques with modern aesthetics, creating innovative designs that appeal to both local and international markets. This fusion of architectural styles and traditional craftsmanship has positioned Turkish textiles at the forefront of fashion and home decoration innovation.

Economic Impact and Sustainability

The textile industry stands as one of Turkey's primary economic drivers, with exports reaching numerous countries worldwide. The sector's success is attributed to the exceptional quality of materials and the skilled craftsmanship of Turkish artisans. Beyond its economic significance, the industry plays a crucial social role by employing millions of people, supporting local communities, and preserving traditional crafts.

Made in Turkey Fabrics [Photo Credit: AA Photo]

With Africa's textile and leather industries experiencing significant growth, the participation of Turkish companies at ASFW 2025 Nairobi presents an unprecedented opportunity for knowledge exchange and business expansion. The exhibition will serve as a platform for establishing sustainable partnerships and exploring new market opportunities between Turkish manufacturers and African businesses.

Interested participants are encouraged to register early for this landmark event. The organizers will continue to provide updates on additional features and participating delegations as the exhibition date approaches.

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS

Turkish Pavilion to Showcase at Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week 2025, in Nairobi

Leading Turkish companies will showcase their innovations under the Turkish Pavilion at Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week (ASFW) 2025 in Nairobi, marking a significant step in strengthening trade relations between Turkey and Africa's burgeoning fashion market. The announcement, made today by ASFW 2025 organizers, highlights Turkey's renowned expertise in textiles, leather, and fashion innovation.

Made in Turkey Fabrics [Photo Credit: AA Photo]

The upcoming exhibition promises to be a cornerstone event for Africa's fashion and textile industry, bringing together continental businesses, vendors, exhibitors, and experts in leather and textiles, alongside fashion designers and industry professionals. The Turkish delegation will present their latest advances in garment manufacturing, sustainable leather production, and cutting-edge textile technologies, offering valuable opportunities for local companies to explore new sourcing options and partnerships.

ASFW 2025 Nairobi continues to serve as the region's premier trade fair, attracting decision-makers and industry leaders from across the globe. The event covers a comprehensive range of product categories, including fabrics, fashion, technology, home décor, leather, footwear, and related services. Exhibitors will have the opportunity to connect with target groups from retail, interior decoration, design, fashion, accessories, and manufacturing sectors.

"As an exhibitor at Africa Sourcing and Fashion Week Nairobi, participants will witness firsthand how this leading international trade fair sets benchmarks for the entire sector," stated the event organizers. The exhibition's international visitor profile and high proportion of decision-makers make it an essential indicator of industry trends and opportunities.

Turkish Textile Heritage and Modern Innovation

Turkey's textile industry represents a perfect blend of historical craftsmanship and modern innovation. The country's rich textile heritage encompasses not only functional products but also cultural artifacts that have become integral to global fashion narratives. From luxurious carpets to intricate embroidery, Turkish textiles continue to captivate international markets with their distinctive style and quality.

The strength of Turkish textile production lies in its use of premium natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. These materials undergo careful processing to create durable and aesthetically pleasing fabrics. Cotton, known for its comfort, is widely used in everyday products like towels and bed linens. Silk, with its lustrous appearance and soft texture, is preferred for scarves and high-end garments. Local wool, sourced from Turkish sheep, provides the foundation for the country's world-renowned carpets and kilims, known for their durability and comfort.

A woman stands amid a mountain of cotton after harvesting in Antalya, southern Turkey, [AA Photo]

Contemporary Turkish designers are successfully bridging traditional techniques with modern aesthetics, creating innovative designs that appeal to both local and international markets. This fusion of architectural styles and traditional craftsmanship has positioned Turkish textiles at the forefront of fashion and home decoration innovation.

Economic Impact and Sustainability

The textile industry stands as one of Turkey's primary economic drivers, with exports reaching numerous countries worldwide. The sector's success is attributed to the exceptional quality of materials and the skilled craftsmanship of Turkish artisans. Beyond its economic significance, the industry plays a crucial social role by employing millions of people, supporting local communities, and preserving traditional crafts.

Made in Turkey Fabrics [Photo Credit: AA Photo]

With Africa's textile and leather industries experiencing significant growth, the participation of Turkish companies at ASFW 2025 Nairobi presents an unprecedented opportunity for knowledge exchange and business expansion. The exhibition will serve as a platform for establishing sustainable partnerships and exploring new market opportunities between Turkish manufacturers and African businesses.

Interested participants are encouraged to register early for this landmark event. The organizers will continue to provide updates on additional features and participating delegations as the exhibition date approaches.

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS

Regenerative Fashion Takes Center Stage as Renowned Rwandan Designers BONE and Native 1018 Join Nairobi Fashion Week 2025

 NAIROBI, KENYA —Nairobi Fashion Week (NFW) is proud to announce that renowned Rwandan designers BONE and Native 1018 will be showcasing their groundbreaking collection of regenerative fashion at the seventh edition of the event.This marks a pivotal moment for both the designers and the fashion industry, as regenerative fashion—a sustainable, eco-conscious approach to design—takes center stage in one of Africa’s most prestigious fashion showcases.

Bone and Native 1018, known for their innovative use of sustainable materials, circular design practices, and commitment to environmental regeneration, are set to present a collection that not only celebrates the beauty of African culture but also leads the charge toward a more sustainable future in fashion. With a focus on reusing, upcycling, and regenerating materials, the designer’s work embodies the ethos of responsibility and care for the planet.

“Season 7 of NFW represents a powerful platform to amplify meaningful narratives through fashion. I was inspired by its commitment to sustainability and the opportunity to connect with other creatives who share a vision of transforming the industry. Participating in this season aligns perfectly with my ethos of using art and design to shape a better future,” says Maurice Niyigena, Fashion Designer and Creative Director BONE.

A collection made by Bone [Photo Credit: Bone]

“The theme resonates deeply with my Movement/collection, Exodus (Kuva in Kinyarwanda), which explores the movement of creative ideas and the breaking of conventions. Sustainability, both as a theme and practice, is integral to my designs, as I believe in creating garments that tell stories while honoring the environment and the communities that inspire them.”

With a bold new theme: Regenerative Fashion Renaissance: Restoring Culture and Nature, this year’s NFW event will shine a spotlight on fashion that not only reduces harm to the planet but actively works towards restoring it. Taking place from January 29^th to 1^st February 2025 at the Sarit Center, the fashion week promises to be a groundbreaking celebration of creativity, sustainability, and innovation, drawing attention to the pressing need for a more responsible and circular fashion industry.

ALSO READ: Regenerative Fashion Renaissance: Nairobi Fashion Week 2025

“We were inspired to be part of Season 7 of NFW because we believe in the power of fashion to tell stories and create change. This season’s theme aligns with our work as it emphasizes the blend of modern trends with cultural elements, which is central to our designs. It’s important for the fashion industry to embrace sustainability because it helps protect our planet and encourages responsible consumption,” says Timmy and Yee, of Native 1018.

The collections made by Native 1018 [Photo Credit: N1018]

The 2025 edition of Nairobi Fashion Week will feature a stellar lineup of designers, models, and influencers from across the globe. With the global fashion industry accounting for significant environmental challenges, the urgency for regenerative fashion has never been more critical. Nairobi Fashion Week 2025 will feature designers who are leading this change, pushing boundaries to make recycling and upcycling integral parts of fashion production and consumption. The event will also provide a platform for industry leaders, environmental activists, and sustainability experts to discuss the future of recycling in fashion and the broader potential for a circular economy in the industry. By shifting towards a circular fashion model, Nairobi Fashion Week aims to change the narrative, illustrating how the fashion industry can be part of the solution rather than the problem.

“The theme aligns with our vision of positioning Africa as a global leader in sustainability. We are working to establish a platform for sustainable designers across Africa, rooted in the region's cultural values. Our goal is to promote organic fabrics and sustainable fashion, and we believe this platform will help us reclaim and celebrate our story," says Brian Kihindas, Creative Director of Nairobi Fashion Week.

Brian Kihindas, Creative Director of Nairobi Fashion Week.

“Recycling in fashion isn’t just about turning old clothes into new garments. It’s about creating a system where fashion becomes a regenerative force, where nothing goes to waste and everything has a second life. Nairobi Fashion Week 2025 will showcase the exciting possibilities that circular fashion holds for the future, not just for Africa, but for the world,” says Lisa Kibutu, Sponsor and Production Lead at NFW.                                             

BUY NFW2025 TICKETS HERE 

Dynamic Race PR initiated Nairobi Fashion Week (NFW) in 2013 with the goal of advancing the fashion industry in East Africa. The event bridges emerging and established designers with both local and international buyers and stockists. In 2023, NFW launched the JUST Fashion campaign, promoting sustainability through responsible sourcing, eco-friendly materials, and ethical production. Additionally, NFW introduced the Fashion Frontier Africa (FFA) incubator program in partnership with European e-tailor Cultrite, aimed at supporting African designers with mentorship and business development opportunities. After completing its first cohort, FFA aims to reach 500 African designers. Having successfully completed six seasons, NFW continues to be a driving force for the future of fashion in Africa.

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS

Letitia Uwera Collaborates With Moshions On New Collection Inspired By Japanese Kintsugi

"I am a fashion designer and founder of Boldy Bonza, and I'm thrilled to be part of Kwanda Season 3," says Letitia Uwera, marking an exciting new chapter in her fashion career.

The former model is embarking on an ambitious collaboration with Moshions, one of Rwanda's most prestigious fashion brands. Before transitioning to fashion design, Uwera established herself as a prominent figure in Rwanda's modeling industry, gracing runways and appearing in numerous commercial campaigns throughout Kigali.

Letitia Uwera on the runway in 2017 showcasing a collection made by Moshions [Photo Credit: NIBS]

Moshions recently announced, "Kwanda Hub Season 3 welcomes our second creative finalist, Uwera, for an exclusive eight-week journey with KWS3. The program is proudly supported by Institut Français du Rwanda."

Uwera's journey into fashion design began in 2020, quickly making waves with her distinctive aesthetic. Her work has already been featured in several prestigious shows, including a notable appearance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kigali 2022, where her collections caught the attention of fashion enthusiasts.

 The collections made by Boldy Bonza were showcased at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Kigali 2022

"I was amazed to discover her collections," remarked one fashion enthusiast in Kigali. "I knew her as a model, but her talent as a designer is truly impressive."

Speaking about the upcoming collaboration, Uwera revealed her inspiration: "The collection we're creating with Moshions is inspired by Kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold, enhancing its value through transformation."

Kintsugi is a Japanese art form that involves repairing broken pottery with lacquer and gold, silver, or platinum powder [Photo Credit: NT]

Moses Turahirwa, founder of Moshions, spoke to RCS Media in December 2024 in Nairobi about the evolution of Kwanda Hub: "Kwanda Hub Season 3 extends beyond Moshions. It's about nurturing creative talent and providing a platform for other designers to showcase their collections." He added, "The collections displayed at the Erika Store in Karen include work from various Rwandan creators. Their unique creativity inspires me, and we'll continue supporting emerging talent."

The collaboration has generated excitement within the fashion community. Ysolde Gasam, Co-Founder of Uzuri K&Y, enthusiastically commented, "This is the collaboration we never knew we needed. Can't wait to see the results!"

Another Kigali-based fashion observer noted, "This initiative demonstrates Moshions' commitment to industry growth rather than competition. It sets an example for established designers to mentor and empower emerging talent."

The collections were made by Boldy Bonza and founded by Letitia Uwera [Photo Credit: LU ]

For Uwera, this collaboration represents an opportunity to elevate her brand: "This is the perfect platform to express my identity and share our cultural story with the world. I'm excited to see what emerges from this partnership."

Letitia Uwera is a long-serving model in Rwanda's fashion industry [Photo Credit: LU ]

The program also includes other talented creators, such as Jack Nyinzingabo, known as Yakubu Motari, who will focus on jacket design and styling. "I'm looking forward to working with Moses and the team to contribute to the lifestyle aspect of the collection," Nyinzingabo shared.

Jack Nyinzingabo, known as Yakubu Motari [Photo Credit: NM]

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

Western Pressure Undermines East African Unity on Second-Hand Clothing Ban, Says Rwanda's Kagame

President Paul Kagame of Rwanda has revealed how Western countries, particularly the United States, undermined regional efforts to reduce second-hand clothing imports in East Africa, leading to Rwanda's exclusion from the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).

Speaking at a diplomatic luncheon in Kigali on Thursday, January 16, Kagame reflected on Rwanda's diplomatic relations in 2024 while addressing the controversial decision that put his country at odds with Western trade partners.

"AGOA was supposed to be a wonderful thing, meant to serve all of us. But Rwanda made what I would call a happy mistake," Kagame explained. "We decided to grow our textile industry by reducing what we locally call 'chagua' (second-hand clothing). We believed this aligned with AGOA's goal of helping us progress."

H.E President Paul Kagame of Rwanda speaking at a diplomatic luncheon in Kigali on Thursday, January 16

The journey to reduce second-hand clothing imports began between 2014 and 2015 when Rwanda, alongside other East African nations, was willing to implemente the "Made in East Africa" policy to boost local manufacturing, including the fashion sector. The initiative included increased taxation on second-hand clothing imports and measures to gradually phase them out.

However, Kagame revealed a previously untold aspect of this story: "We had agreed with other countries in the region to take this approach together. Before we realized what was happening, these countries had been persuaded to reverse their decision – without informing us. The next day, Rwanda was struck off the list of AGOA beneficiaries simply because of our 'stubbornness' in refusing chagua imports."

The 2016 suspension of Rwanda's AGOA benefits for apparel exports raised concerns about the country's ability to sustain its nascent fashion and textile industries. However, recent developments suggest the decision may have yielded positive results despite initial hardships.

ALSO READ: Can SDGs for Better Fashion Work in Africa?

A prominent Rwandan fashion expert, interviewed in 2023, defended the government's stance: "Looking back, the decision was necessary for our country's development. We now have many fashion designers, and Rwandans increasingly understand why we need to stop second-hand imports completely, even though the transition remains challenging."

FIFA President Gianni Infantino and his wife Leena show off the Ijezi made by Rwandan fashion brand the House of Tayo, at the just concluded 73rd FIFA Congress in Kigali. [PHOTO NT]

The expert addressed public health concerns, questioning the practice of wearing second-hand undergarments and socks. He also highlighted the environmental impact visible in neighboring countries, where discarded second-hand clothing pollutes rivers and cities.

The issue has resonated with other regional leaders, including Uganda's President Yoweri Museveni, who strongly opposed the practice, stating, "These are clothes of dead people; Ugandans do not deserve to wear them."

In his concerted effort to promote the “Buy Uganda Build Uganda” (BUBU) national policy, President Yoweri Museveni has banned the importation of second hand clothes also locally known as Mivumba . In this picture, H.E Museveni was inaugurating a Chinese textile factory. 

Critics initially pointed to job losses in the second-hand clothing sector following import restrictions and increased tariffs. However, supporters argue that the long-term benefits of developing a local textile industry outweigh the short-term economic impact.

“This is the choice we find that we have to make. As far as I am concerned, making the choice is simple [although] we might suffer consequences… Rwanda and other countries in the region that are part of AGOA, have to do other things – we have to grow and establish our industries,” Rwanda’s Paul Kagame said in 2017. 

A model showcasing made in Rwanda collection- Inside the Asantii's atelier at Kimihurura in Kigali [Photo Credit: Asantii]

Rwanda's stance on second-hand clothing imports reflects a broader debate about economic independence and sustainable development in East Africa. While Western trade partners used economic leverage through AGOA to maintain their export markets, Rwanda's determination to protect its emerging textile industry demonstrates the complex challenges facing African nations as they pursue economic transformation.

The controversy highlights the ongoing tension between international trade agreements and national development strategies, particularly in emerging economies seeking to build their manufacturing capabilities. Despite losing AGOA benefits, Rwanda's commitment to reducing second-hand clothing imports appears unchanged, suggesting a prioritization of long-term industrial development over short-term trade advantages.

 Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

Western Pressure Undermines East African Unity on Second-Hand Clothing Ban, Says Rwanda's Kagame

President Paul Kagame of Rwanda has revealed how Western countries, particularly the United States, undermined regional efforts to reduce second-hand clothing imports in East Africa, leading to Rwanda's exclusion from the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).

Speaking at a diplomatic luncheon in Kigali on Thursday, January 16, Kagame reflected on Rwanda's diplomatic relations in 2024 while addressing the controversial decision that put his country at odds with Western trade partners.

"AGOA was supposed to be a wonderful thing, meant to serve all of us. But Rwanda made what I would call a happy mistake," Kagame explained. "We decided to grow our textile industry by reducing what we locally call 'chagua' (second-hand clothing). We believed this aligned with AGOA's goal of helping us progress."

H.E President Paul Kagame of Rwanda speaking at a diplomatic luncheon in Kigali on Thursday, January 16

The journey to reduce second-hand clothing imports began between 2014 and 2015 when Rwanda, alongside other East African nations, was willing to implemente the "Made in East Africa" policy to boost local manufacturing, including the fashion sector. The initiative included increased taxation on second-hand clothing imports and measures to gradually phase them out.

However, Kagame revealed a previously untold aspect of this story: "We had agreed with other countries in the region to take this approach together. Before we realized what was happening, these countries had been persuaded to reverse their decision – without informing us. The next day, Rwanda was struck off the list of AGOA beneficiaries simply because of our 'stubbornness' in refusing chagua imports."

The 2016 suspension of Rwanda's AGOA benefits for apparel exports raised concerns about the country's ability to sustain its nascent fashion and textile industries. However, recent developments suggest the decision may have yielded positive results despite initial hardships.

ALSO READ: Can SDGs for Better Fashion Work in Africa?

A prominent Rwandan fashion expert, interviewed in 2023, defended the government's stance: "Looking back, the decision was necessary for our country's development. We now have many fashion designers, and Rwandans increasingly understand why we need to stop second-hand imports completely, even though the transition remains challenging."

FIFA President Gianni Infantino and his wife Leena show off the Ijezi made by Rwandan fashion brand the House of Tayo, at the just concluded 73rd FIFA Congress in Kigali. [PHOTO NT]

The expert addressed public health concerns, questioning the practice of wearing second-hand undergarments and socks. He also highlighted the environmental impact visible in neighboring countries, where discarded second-hand clothing pollutes rivers and cities.

The issue has resonated with other regional leaders, including Uganda's President Yoweri Museveni, who strongly opposed the practice, stating, "These are clothes of dead people; Ugandans do not deserve to wear them."

In his concerted effort to promote the “Buy Uganda Build Uganda” (BUBU) national policy, President Yoweri Museveni has banned the importation of second hand clothes also locally known as Mivumba . In this picture, H.E Museveni was inaugurating a Chinese textile factory. 

Critics initially pointed to job losses in the second-hand clothing sector following import restrictions and increased tariffs. However, supporters argue that the long-term benefits of developing a local textile industry outweigh the short-term economic impact.

“This is the choice we find that we have to make. As far as I am concerned, making the choice is simple [although] we might suffer consequences… Rwanda and other countries in the region that are part of AGOA, have to do other things – we have to grow and establish our industries,” Rwanda’s Paul Kagame said in 2017. 

A model showcasing made in Rwanda collection- Inside the Asantii's atelier at Kimihurura in Kigali [Photo Credit: Asantii]

Rwanda's stance on second-hand clothing imports reflects a broader debate about economic independence and sustainable development in East Africa. While Western trade partners used economic leverage through AGOA to maintain their export markets, Rwanda's determination to protect its emerging textile industry demonstrates the complex challenges facing African nations as they pursue economic transformation.

The controversy highlights the ongoing tension between international trade agreements and national development strategies, particularly in emerging economies seeking to build their manufacturing capabilities. Despite losing AGOA benefits, Rwanda's commitment to reducing second-hand clothing imports appears unchanged, suggesting a prioritization of long-term industrial development over short-term trade advantages.

 Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS 

How to Build a Successful Fashion Brand in Kenya: Insights from Fashion Expert Mr. Meitamei Saitoti

Kenya stands as the leading economy in East Africa, attracting investors from across the globe. The country has witnessed a significant shift in mindset among its youth, particularly recent college and university graduates, who increasingly embrace entrepreneurship rather than solely pursuing government employment. This entrepreneurial spirit has given rise to what locals call "side hustles," with many maintaining small businesses even alongside regular employment.

The fashion sector in Kenya has emerged as a vibrant space for entrepreneurship, where business owners invest not just capital, but also their creativity, skills, and time. These fashion entrepreneurs actively engage in social media promotion, organize professional photoshoots for new collections, and employ various strategies to build their brand presence.

For the past three years, RCFS's Media has been reporting directly from Nairobi, Kenya's capital city. Our team has covered numerous fashion events and documented the journeys of both emerging designers and established professionals who are revolutionizing Kenya's fashion industry.

Students inside the Delight Fashion School  in Nairobi

To understand the key elements of building a successful fashion brand in Kenya, we spoke with Mr. Meitamei Saitoti, a distinguished leader in fashion education and Director of Delight Technical College and Delight Africa Corporate Training Solutions. Under his leadership, Delight Fashion School has become a pioneer in circular and sustainable fashion, incorporating eco-friendly practices into its curriculum to develop environmentally conscious designers.

Mr. Meitamei Saitoti, a distinguished leader in fashion education and Director of Delight Technical College, during the Eco Fashion Week 2024 in Nairobi

Mr. Saitoti outlines several crucial elements for fashion brand success:

Finding Your Niche

"Fashion designers must focus on what makes their brand unique," explains Saitoti. "This differentiation is crucial in a competitive market."

Creating a Strong Brand Identity

"Developing a memorable logo, name, and compelling brand story is fundamental," he emphasizes. "These elements form the foundation of your brand's recognition and appeal."

Ensuring Quality

Saitoti stresses the importance of creating stylish and durable products. "Quality is non-negotiable in building a lasting fashion brand."

Building Online Presence

"A strong digital presence through websites and social media is essential for showcasing collections and engaging with customers," notes Saitoti.

Strategic Marketing

"Success requires investment in advertising, influencer partnerships, and local promotions," he advises. "Collaboration with other brands, retailers, or influencers can significantly expand your reach."

Understanding the Market

Saitoti emphasizes staying current with fashion trends and events while providing exceptional customer service. "Personalized, responsive support and honest communication with clients are crucial, especially in handling sales issues or returns."

Going Global

"Think beyond local markets by leveraging global online platforms," suggests Saitoti. "But remember to maintain consistency and patience as your brand grows."

Mr. Saitoti's vision extends beyond conventional fashion education. At Delight Technical College, he has implemented cutting-edge technical education programs that address global challenges like waste reduction and ethical sourcing. The institution's state-of-the-art facilities and expert faculty focus on fostering innovation and excellence in technical education.

Students from the Delight Fashion School  in Nairobi

Through his leadership at Delight Fashion School, Saitoti has established a hub for sustainable fashion education, making significant contributions to advancing circular fashion principles in Kenya's fashion industry. His commitment to nurturing innovative talent while promoting environmental consciousness has positioned the school as a leader in sustainable fashion education.

The collections made by the students of the Delight Fashion School  in Nairobi 

This comprehensive approach to fashion entrepreneurship, combining business acumen with sustainable practices, exemplifies the evolution of Kenya's fashion industry and its potential for global impact.

Mr. Meitamei Saitoti, a distinguished leader in fashion education and Director of Delight Technical College

  Graduation of the Delight Fashion School  in Nairobi 2024

 Graduation of the Delight Fashion School  in Nairobi 2024

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS