Who let this in? Reflections on Circular Opportunities in Kenya’s Textile Industry

By Cynthia Mwangi

Last week, I was privileged to represent Maisha by Nisria at the Annual Circular Economy Conference hosted by Sustainable Inclusive Business Kenya. I get excited at every opportunity to contribute to raising awareness about how fashion impacts the environment. This year, we participated in the panel on “Circular Opportunities in Kenya’s Textile Industry: Pathways to a Sustainable, Circular, and Inclusive Future.”

For Maisha by Nisria, the circular economy presents key opportunities, starting with creating job opportunities for youth in the fashion industry. We’ve empowered young people to reimagine their role in this evolving space through skills training and education. Our core practice — upcycling — uses discarded materials and transforms them into durable, high-quality products.

Upcycling holds a special place in my heart because it’s an accessible practice. With scissors, needles, and thread, anyone can redesign old clothing, starting at home, where meaningful change often begins.

But systemic change requires collective effort. For instance, studios specializing in organic dyeing could collaborate with upcycling and recycling initiatives to explore fabric restoration. By pooling our expertise, we could bridge gaps in sustainable practices and amplify our impact

Lilabare’s innovative Banana Waste & Handloom Cotton Jacket

Kenyan fashion brands such as Maisha by Nisria, Africa Collect Textiles, and Lilabare are uniquely positioned to lead the global conversation on eco-friendly fashion. The growing demand for green fashion offers countless opportunities; implementing zero-waste policies, promoting fair trade, using eco-friendly fabrics like linen and organic cotton, and integrating repair and mend initiatives for their customers.

Further, sustainable African brands can set themselves apart by weaving culture and storytelling into their creations.

We have always been natural problem solvers, finding innovative solutions to challenges time and time again. Combating the textile waste issue has led to meaningful outcomes like job creation, policy rethinking, and post-consumer initiatives. But amidst these adaptations, we must also remember what we’ve lost.

Before my time, Kenya had a thriving textile industry with entities like Rivertex and robust cotton-growing farms. Today, much of that has declined. The same can be noted for the demand for once-celebrated Kenyan designers known for infusing culture into fashion.

This intersection of circularity and our culture is missing from today’s conversations. While I appreciate the optimism surrounding circular practices, I believe it’s essential to approach the dialogue with some retrospection. Yes, we must adapt to challenges, but we should also acknowledge what’s been lost in the process; especially within the context of being African, Kenyan, and a former colony now dependent on imported second-hand clothes.

For example, the influx of low-quality textiles into Kenya is still a pressing issue. As our studio, Maisha by Nisria, sources materials to upcycle, we come across tattered, stained garments and wonder, Who let this in? The reality is that we are willingly accepting other countries’ waste. I often think that this can change if we cultivate a sense of pride.

Think about it— would you let your neighbor pile their garbage on your balcony every week? I hope not! You’d expect them to take responsibility for their waste. Similarly, it is a great time to start saying No to being a dumping ground for other countries' discarded textiles.

Return to sender: Africa doesn't need more of your clothes!

In conclusion, circularity in fashion is more than just a sustainability conversation— it’s a question of our collective future. By embracing responsibility, fostering pride, and committing to a Kenyan-driven circular economy, we can uncover the path to more progress.

Mwangi Cynthia

Fashion Trends Africa by RCFS