Kenyan Fashion vs. US Fashion: Which is Better?
The fashion landscape is evolving as Kenyan designers make bold moves into the American market. Recently, Vivo Women, a collective of Kenyan fashion designers, established their first retail presence in Atlanta, marking a significant milestone in the integration of African fashion into the US market. This development raises interesting questions about the distinctive characteristics and comparative advantages of both Kenyan and American fashion scenes.
Customers inside the Vivo Women USA in Atlanta [Photo Credit: Vivo]
Fashion serves as a cultural bridge, telling stories of heritage while embracing contemporary influences. In Kenya, the fashion scene blends rich traditional aesthetics with modern sensibilities, creating unique designs that speak to both local and international audiences. The United States, meanwhile, represents a melting pot of global fashion influences, where diverse styles coexist and evolve rapidly.
The recent expansion of Vivo Women into Atlanta has generated excitement among the Kenyan-American community. As one Kenyan resident in the USA noted, "This initiative will bring together our local fashion designers in this state, allowing them to sell our unique culture through their creativity." This enthusiasm reflects the deeper significance of fashion as a cultural ambassador.
Made in Kenya clothes have been sold by Vivo Women USA in Atlanta [Photo Credit: Vivo]
Kenyan fashion draws deeply from its cultural heritage, incorporating vibrant Kitenge prints, intricate beadwork, and traditional textile techniques. These elements are reimagined in contemporary silhouettes, creating pieces that honor tradition while embracing modernity. The results are garments that tell stories of Kenyan heritage while appealing to modern sensibilities.
The collections made by the Kenyan fashion designer Epic Jewelry [Photo Credit: EPIC]
American fashion, conversely, reflects its multicultural nature and fast-paced lifestyle. It often emphasizes practicality and individual expression, with styles ranging from preppy East Coast aesthetics to laid-back West Coast casual wear. The influence of popular culture, entertainment, and social media plays a significant role in shaping American fashion trends.
The collections made by the American fashion designer Calvin Klein [Photo Credit: CK]
Both countries approach fashion functionality differently. Kenyan designers often create versatile pieces that work well in tropical climates while maintaining cultural significance. Their designs frequently feature breathable fabrics and flowing silhouettes that suit the local weather while making bold fashion statements.
The collections made by the Kenyan fashion designer John Kaveke [Photo Credit: CK]
American fashion tends to focus on seasonality and lifestyle adaptability. The market demands clothes that transition easily from work to social settings, with an emphasis on comfort and practicality. This has led to the popularity of athleisure and versatile basics that can be styled in multiple ways.
The collections made by the American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger [Photo Credit: TH]
The entry of Kenyan designers into the US market highlights both opportunities and challenges. As one fashion commentator noted, "It is good for Kenyans and other Africans to have a chance to buy from their fellow Africans. However, I am not sure if Americans will shop from Vivo USA shop... It will take time to convince them, especially since our fashion designers' prices are sometimes higher even compared to H&M clothes."
H.E William Ruto the president of the Republic of Kenya officially opened the Vivo Women in the USA in 2024 [Photo Credit: Vivo]
This price point challenge reflects broader industry differences. The US fashion industry operates on a massive scale, with established supply chains and manufacturing processes that often enable lower pricing. Kenyan designers, focusing on quality craftsmanship and unique designs, may face challenges competing purely on price.
However, the unique value proposition of Kenyan fashion lies not in price competition but in offering distinctive, culturally rich designs that stand out in a saturated market. The growing interest in sustainable and ethically produced fashion among American consumers could work in favor of Kenyan designers who often employ traditional, sustainable production methods.
The collections made by the Kenyan fashion designer Kikoromeo [Photo Credit: CK]
The question "Which is better?" ultimately misses the point. Both Kenyan and American fashion bring unique strengths to the global fashion conversation. Kenyan fashion offers rich cultural heritage, unique craftsmanship, and bold designs that can't be replicated by mass-market retailers. American fashion provides accessibility, practicality, and a platform for diverse style expressions.
The collections made by the American fashion designer Autumn Adeigbo [Photo Credit: AA]
Can Elder Models Compete with Young Ones in Nigeria? Elder Series 2024/2025
Nigeria's modeling industry is experiencing a remarkable transformation, challenging traditional age barriers and showcasing the timeless appeal of mature talent. While the sector has long been dominated by younger models, recent events demonstrate how elder models are making their mark on the runway.
The Nigerian fashion landscape has flourished in recent years, with established agencies like Beth Model Management leading the charge and independent models gaining prominence. The international success of Nigerian models like Mayowa Nicholas and Davidson Obennebo has put the country's modeling talent on the global map. This growth is reflected in the proliferation of prestigious events such as Lagos Fashion Week and Nigeria Fashion Week, alongside increasing demand from domestic fashion brands and advertisers.
The holiday season of 2024/2025 marked a significant shift in the industry when elder models took center stage, demonstrating their ability to compete with their younger counterparts. The Elder Series 2024-2025, organized in partnership with Entertainment Week Lagos, brought together fashion enthusiasts, industry professionals, and entertainment celebrities. Notable participants included veteran actors Jude Chukwuka and Richard Mofe-Damijo (RMD), who commanded the runway with their presence and style.
The event garnered widespread attention and praise from both local and international audiences. A prominent Nigerian media personality remarked, "This event proved that anyone can be a model. This was amazing and lovable." The sentiment was echoed by international observers, with one fashion enthusiast commenting, "I am not from Nigeria, I just love fashion. When I see someone looking like my mother, it makes me so happy for my African motherland."
Film Director and Creative Technologist Malik Afegbua, who helped promote the event, shared photographs that sparked considerable interest in elder modeling. The response was overwhelming, with comments ranging from aspiring models like Mark Johnson asking, "How do I become an elder model?" to industry professionals like Ovacom Media LLC expressing interest in future partnerships.
Fashion experts define elder or mature models as those aged 40 and above. The global fashion industry has several inspiring examples of successful mature models. Naomi Campbell, born in 1970, continues to dominate major fashion shows. Carmen Dell'Orefice, born in 1931, holds the title of World's oldest working model, while Beverly Johnson, born in 1952, made history as the first Black model on Vogue's cover.
Nigeria boasts its own roster of accomplished mature models, including Nike Oshinowo, a former beauty queen turned businesswoman; Ify Jones, a pioneer in Nigerian plus-size modeling; and Pat Oghre, a television personality and commercial model. Their success demonstrates that age is no barrier to a modeling career in Nigeria.
The Elder Series 2024-2025 has proven that mature models can not only compete with younger ones but also bring a unique perspective and elegance to the runway.
Rwandese Singizwa Bertrand Among 8 Finalists Selected for Fashion Frontier Program 2024 in Tokyo
"The fashion industry needs to change. We search, praise, and educate future fashion designers who have the courage and ambition to overcome this situation" - Fashion Frontier Program
The Fashion Frontier Program (FFP) 2024 finalists are exhibiting in Tokyo, Japan, from December 9th to 14th, 2024. After an intense selection process that began with 17 semi-finalists presenting their work, eight finalists were ultimately chosen. Among these promising designers is Rwandan fashion designer Hakizimana Singizwa Bertrand.
Hakizimana's artistic journey is deeply rooted in his multicultural background. Born in Rwanda and raised in Kenya, these two countries have profoundly influenced his creative path. His artistic exploration began in high school, where he initially expressed himself through rap music, drawing inspiration from groups like Odd Future and ASAP Mob.
In 2021, Hakizimana articulated his artistic vision: to develop an aesthetic that unifies all his creative endeavors. This creative drive led him to fashion, a medium through which he explores self-expression and storytelling. His designs are a powerful narrative of young Africans born in the late 90s and early 2000s, who grew up immersed in cable television culture.
PHOTO: Collection by Singizwa Bertrand - Alienated Route
His featured collection, "Wrong Things, Wrong Place, and Wrong Time," emerged from an unexpected source: the COVID-19 lockdown. Confined to a small space for extended periods, Hakizimana found inspiration in the everyday household items surrounding him. He began reimagining these ordinary objects as fabric designs, transforming his potential isolation into a creative opportunity.
"This creative energy kept me positive and mentally healthy during the lockdown," Hakizimana explained. "My creations focused on the decorative elements that made our living space beautiful and habitable—from the items I used to keep the space clean, to the objects related to food and footwear, and ultimately, redefining how we perceive and wear a shirt."
PHOTO: Collection by Singizwa Bertrand -Alienated Route
Beyond the lockdown's creative stimulus, Hakizimana honed his skills at the Delight Fashion School in Nairobi. He also benefited from mentorship programs like Creative DNA 4 by the British Council in the East African region. These experiences were instrumental in developing his brand, Alienated Route, which ultimately secured his place among the FFP2024 finalists.
The Fashion Frontier Program, established in 2021, operates on a transformative philosophy. By identifying, supporting, and educating emerging fashion designers who demonstrate courage and ambition, the program aims to catalyze positive societal change. The application is open to anyone passionate about taking innovative steps in fashion design.
Selected finalists are challenged to create garment designs that embody both social responsibility and creativity. The program provides comprehensive support, including guidance from advisers and experts, and a platform to showcase their innovative work.
PHOTO: Collections of the finalists of the FFP2024
The other finalists include Kiyoshi Tomiyama, Luna Nakagawa, Mai Suzuki, Misaki Suda, Mitsuki Murata, Sandra Jao, and Tatsumi Iwai.
When asked about his experience and growth through the program's lectures, Hakizimana shared profound insights. Tara's session on circularity particularly resonated with him, inspiring him to adopt the "make to remake" concept. By minimizing seams, he ensured his garment could be easily disassembled, allowing for future repurposing—a testament to his commitment to sustainable design.
Yuima Nakazato's feedback further transformed his approach. Challenging Hakizimana to move beyond conventional upcycling, Nakazato encouraged him to create more personally compelling work. This guidance prompted Hakizimana to integrate the traditions of the Mucubal people with his avant-garde fashion principles.
PHOTO: Collection by Singizwa Bertrand -Alienated Route
"My work now transcends simple upcycling," Hakizimana explained. "By drawing from the Mucubal's cultural richness and aligning it with my avant-garde vision, I've created something that feels fresh, personal, and innovative. This process has deepened my enthusiasm, as I now see my design as an authentic expression of my style and values."
The program concluded with award announcements:
PHOTO: Winners of the FFP2024
Grand Prize: Misaki Suda "Forest Clothes: In the Glow"
Runner-up: Kiyoshi Tomiyama "KEMMUN"
Runner-up: Mitsuki Murata "WE WANNA"
The Fashion Frontier Program continues to be a beacon of innovation, supporting designers who can meaningfully integrate social responsibility and creativity into their work.
What to Expect in Lagos Heineken Fashion Week 2024: Runways Kick off Today
The prestigious Heineken Lagos Fashion Week (LagosFW), one of Africa's leading fashion events, launches today with an ambitious five-day showcase featuring over 50 designers. Running from October 23rd to 27th, 2024, this year's edition embraces the theme "COMMUNE" to celebrate Africa's premier creative talents.
The event, hosted in Nigeria's fashion capital, serves as a vital platform connecting buyers, consumers, and media with innovative African designers. This season's campaign, photographed at the historic John Randle Centre for Yoruba Culture & History, underscores Lagos Fashion Week's commitment to preserving African craftsmanship while nurturing future creative talents.
Some of the collections that will be showcased at the Lagos Heineken Fashion Week 2024 [Photo Credit: LFW]
A highlight of this year's program is the Green Access initiative, a revolutionary fashion accelerator established through a collaboration between Lagos Fashion Week and Style House Files. This program takes center stage in supporting emerging designers committed to sustainable practices through practical skills development, institutional support, and mentorship opportunities.
Five promising Green Access finalists—DIMEJI ILORI, GARBE, MALITÉ, OYA ABEÓ, and REVIVAL—will showcase their collections on the prestigious Lagos Fashion Week runway. Each designer will present three carefully curated designs that embody their brand aesthetics and creative journey, developed through intensive mentorship focusing on responsible production and sourcing practices.
Lagos Heineken Fashion Week 2024 will take up to 5 days [Photo Credit: LFW]
Over the five-day extravaganza, attendees can expect a comprehensive exploration of the African fashion value chain, with special emphasis on innovation and sustainability across the continent. The event promises to demonstrate how African fashion continues to evolve while maintaining its cultural roots and embracing sustainable practices.
Lagos Fashion Week has established itself as more than just a fashion showcase; it's a driving force behind the Nigerian and broader African fashion industry. This year's edition aims to strengthen this position by fostering meaningful connections between industry stakeholders while highlighting the rich diversity of African fashion talent.
Some of the collections that will be showcased at the Lagos Heineken Fashion Week 2024 [Photo Credit: LFW]
The event's expanded five-day format, up from its traditional four days, reflects the growing significance and complexity of Africa's fashion ecosystem. With its focus on sustainability, heritage, and innovation, the 2024 edition promises to set new benchmarks for fashion weeks across the continent while reinforcing Lagos's position as a major fashion capital.
The Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024: Runway Built on Water [PHOTOS]
The Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 has reimagined the traditional fashion show concept with its latest event, held on Saturday, September 28, 2024, at the Terrace Hall in Slipway Hotel, Masaki, Dar es Salaam. This year's edition captivated attendees with its innovative approach, combining style, creativity, and a unique aquatic twist.
Audience members during the Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
As fashion enthusiasts arrived at the venue, they were greeted by a meticulously organized event. A red carpet stretched out before them, inviting guests to capture their glamorous moments with photos and selfies. The atmosphere buzzed with excitement, setting the stage for an unforgettable evening of fashion and creativity.
Audience members on the red carpet during the Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
The centerpiece of the event was undoubtedly the breathtaking runway that stretched elegantly over the hotel's pool. This audacious design choice transformed the traditional catwalk into a floating spectacle, adding an element of drama and sophistication to the proceedings. Models glided gracefully above the water, their reflections shimmering beneath them, creating a mesmerizing visual effect that left the audience in awe.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Smirnoff, the main sponsor of the event, ensured that guests were well-refreshed throughout the evening. Under the theme "Smirnoff's Night to Remember," attendees sipped on signature cocktails while enjoying the fashion extravaganza, further enhancing the festive atmosphere.
Deogratius Kithama, the founder of Tanzania Fashion Festival, expressed the event's core mission: "Our goal has always been to provide Tanzanian fashion craftsmen and women with a stage that would elevate their visibility on both national and international levels." This commitment to showcasing local talent was evident in the diverse array of designers featured at the festival.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Over 20 talented designers brought their unique visions to life on the water-top runway. The collections ranged from avant-garde styles pushing the boundaries of conventional fashion to pieces that elegantly incorporated traditional Tanzanian elements. Each garment told a story, reflecting the rich cultural tapestry of Tanzania while embracing contemporary global trends.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
The models, adorned in stunning apparel and intricate ornaments, were the perfect canvas for these artistic creations. Their poise and grace as they navigated the floating runway added an extra layer of allure to the already captivating designs. The interplay between the flowing fabrics, the shimmering water below, and the ambient lighting created a truly magical atmosphere.
From left is Deogratius Kithama the founder of Tanzania Fashion Festival, and with Miss Tanzania 2023/2024 Tracy Nabukeera [Photo Credit: TFF]
Among the standout collections were an array of beachwear and casual wear outfits, perfectly suited to Tanzania's tropical climate and laid-back lifestyle. Designers showcased innovative uses of local textiles, incorporating traditional patterns and motifs into modern, wearable pieces. The men's collections were equally impressive, featuring sharp tailoring and bold prints that challenged conventional menswear norms.
Adding to the evening's entertainment was a musical performance by Tanzanian singer Saraphina Michael, known professionally as Phina. Her energetic set provided a rhythmic backdrop to the fashion showcase, further highlighting the synergy between Tanzania's music and fashion scenes.
Tanzania Singer is known as PHINA during the Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Now in its 7th edition since its founding in 2018, the Tanzania Fashion Festival has grown to become a highly anticipated event in East Africa's fashion calendar. This year's unique decorations, coupled with the floating runway concept, set a new standard for fashion events in the region.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
As the fashion industry in Tanzania continues to evolve and gain recognition, questions arise about the long-term impact of such events on the careers of models and designers. While the festival provides an invaluable platform for exposure, the challenge lies in translating this visibility into sustainable business opportunities and international recognition for Tanzania's fashion talent.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Looking ahead, the success of the Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 points to a bright future for the country's fashion industry. By continuing to innovate and showcase the best of Tanzanian creativity, the festival is not just a celebration of style but a powerful tool for economic and cultural development. As the curtain falls on this year's event, fashion enthusiasts and industry insiders alike eagerly anticipate what next year's festival will bring to the ever-evolving landscape of East African fashion.
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Tanzania Fashion Festival 2024 [Photo Credit: TFF]
Who are the 10 Confirmed Fashion Designers at the 17th Edition of Swahili Fashion Week & Awards 2024?
The 17th Edition of Swahili Fashion Week & Awards 2024 is set to showcase the best of East African fashion, with a particular focus on boosting Tanzania's fashion industry. This prestigious event brings together fashion entrepreneurs, experts, and investors, creating a vibrant platform for both local and international designers to display their creativity and connect with industry professionals.
The Swahili Fashion Week's primary objective is to elevate Tanzania's fashion industry on the global stage. According to the event's website, it provides "a unique platform for fashion enthusiasts and textile professionals to connect, share ideas, skills, and insights, and find new collaborative opportunities that can help Tanzania achieve its ambition of industrialization."
The fashion week brings together the fashion forum, runway shows, and the Washington Benbella Emerging Designers Competition 2024 which gives awards to the winner. Key objectives of the fashion forum include: Raising awareness of Tanzania's textile and apparel industry and discussing challenges and opportunities within the sector as well as establishing a symbiotic relationship between Tanzania's fashion scene and the international apparel industry.
Collection of @mkwanduleson at the Swahili Fashion Week 2023 runway show
Sustainability Theme: "Cooking Clean Energy"
This year's event promises to be unique, with a strong emphasis on promoting sustainability in fashion. The organizers have chosen an intriguing theme: "Cooking Clean Energy" (Nishati Safi ya Kupikia in Kiswahili). They challenge participants to "unleash your creativity" and demonstrate how fashion can be fused with sustainability principles.
The Cooking Clean Enegery concept that will be awarded to the winners, is from the Washington Benbella Emerging Designers Competition 2024 which was created in memory of Washington Benbella is a Tanzanian male born in 1989 and died in 2016. He was a young man who was very passionate about his work. He worked with 361 Degrees Africa for more than five years as a Fashion Coordinator and later as the project manager for Swahili Fashion Week.
In the poster is the picture of Mr. Washington Benbella a Tanzanian born in 1989 and died in 2016
This platform is given by Swahili Fashion Week and Awards to young emerging designers who want to create brands and use Swahili Fashion Week as a stepping stone towards achieving their dreams. It was created in honor of celebrating Washington Benbella, SFW project manager. The call of entry was announced and the chosen finalist will compete for the Washington Benbella Emerging Designers Competition Award 2024, pushing them to be the next fashion icon.
International Participation and Challenges
While the event aims to attract international designers, industry experts note that securing such participation can be challenging. A fashion expert closely following East African fashion events shared insights on the matter:
"Nowadays, it is hard to find international fashion designers willing to book a flight and attend an event outside their country because they may not recoup their investments. Organizers need to convince them by showcasing opportunities around the fashion show, such as exhibitions or pop-up stores, where designers can meet clients directly."
SFW 2023 [Photo Credit: SFW]
The expert also highlighted a common issue with fashion shows: "Many fashion shows run late, and when they're done, people start leaving without even asking for designers' business cards. Some events start late, and by the time they finish, attendees are eager to depart."
SFW 2023 [Photo Credit: SFW]
10 Confirmed Fashion Designers in SFW 2024
Despite these challenges, the 17th Edition of Swahili Fashion Week & Awards 2024 has secured commitments from 10 diverse and talented fashion designers. Each promises to bring unique and quality collections to the runway:
- Reen Fashionflair (Tanzania): A local fashion brand known for its vibrant, contemporary take on traditional Tanzanian textiles.
- Reen Collection (Tanzania): Another Tanzanian brand, related to Reen Fashionflair, focusing on ready-to-wear fashion with an African twist.
- Kushweeet Designs (Kenya): A Kenyan designer bringing East African street style to high fashion.
- Jojo African Design (Tanzania): A local brand celebrating the rich cultural heritage of Tanzania through modern fashion.
- Iterik (Uganda): A rising star in Ugandan fashion, known for bold prints and innovative silhouettes.
- Jescudo (Ethiopia): An Ethiopian designer blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design.
- BK Brand (Tanzania): A local Tanzanian brand focusing on sustainable and ethical fashion practices.
- Dida (Italy): An Italian designer bringing international flair to the event, possibly incorporating African influences into European designs.
- Abestina Apparel (Tanzania): A local brand known for its elegant, minimalist approach to Tanzanian fashion.
- The Seamstress (Tanzania): A Tanzanian brand celebrating the art of tailoring and custom-made fashion.
Expectations and Opportunities
The diverse lineup of designers promises an exciting showcase of talent from across East Africa and beyond. Local Tanzanian designers will have the opportunity to learn from international experts, exchange ideas, and potentially form collaborations that could elevate their brands to the global stage.
For international designers like Dida from Italy, the event offers a unique chance to tap into the growing East African market and gain inspiration from the region's rich cultural heritage.
The inclusion of designers from neighboring countries like Kenya, Uganda, and Ethiopia highlights the event's regional significance and its potential to foster cooperation within the East African fashion industry.
As the 17th Edition of Swahili Fashion Week & Awards 2024 approaches, anticipation builds for the innovative designs and sustainable fashion solutions that will grace the runway. With its focus on clean energy and sustainability, the event is poised to make a significant impact on the fashion industry, both locally and internationally.
The success of this year's event could pave the way for increased international participation in future editions, solidifying Tanzania's position as a hub for fashion innovation in East Africa. As the fashion world turns its eyes to Dar es Salaam, the 10 confirmed designers stand ready to showcase the best of what Swahili fashion has to offer.
With a remarkable lineup of gifted designers from all across Africa and beyond, meet @zawadifromzanzibar from #zanzibar- The 17th edition of Swahili Fashion Week is sure to be an exciting and thrilling celebration of fashion.
Rwandan Cesta Collective handbag brand Receives Investment from Meghan Markle
Cesta baskets are handwoven of locally sourced, renewable resources, by talented female artisans in Rwanda, Africa who are best in class at their craft. They create consistent, fair-wage opportunities that empower women and drive sustainable income. Each piece is hand-finished in Italy and is a reflection of the brand's thoughtful approach to production.
Meghan Markle has recently garnered attention for her investment in Cesta Collective, a Rwandan handbag brand that empowers female artisans. Known for her keen investment choices and advocacy, Markle has become Cesta Collective's first equity investor and strategic partner, said Courtney Weinblatt Fasciano, who co-founded the luxury bag company with Erin Ryder in 2018.
[PHOTO: Meghan Markle speaking during the celebrating Women’s Day in Texas at the SXSW Conference March 2024]
Markle's investment is not merely financial. She expressed her admiration for Cesta Collective's ethos. "Courtney and Erin have a really incredible and strategic business. The quality of a brand's products, the supply chain, ethical standards and practices, these are all things that I consider before making an investment," Markle told The New York Times. "With Cesta, I really started to understand how many women's lives were being impacted and uplifted through their work. That was incredibly important to me."
Cesta Collective, which specializes in basket bags that are handwoven by a collective of women in Rwanda and finished in Italy, caught Meghan's eye while she was online shopping. "I spend a lot of time just Googling, looking for brands, when people are online looking for things or reading things, I'm trying to find great new designers, especially in different territories," she said.
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
In May 2023, Meghan attended a dinner date with Cameron Diaz, Gwyneth Paltrow, and their spouses, wearing a Cesta bag. Following the event, the bag gained significant attention. Cesta's founders, Erin Ryder and Courtney Weinblatt Fasciano, observed a surge in interest almost immediately.
"We were heading to Mexico for a book shoot," Ryder told The New York Times. "As soon as we landed and connected to the internet, we saw that this previously slow-selling style was completely sold out. We received a flood of 'back in stock' sign-ups. We realized something must have triggered this surge, so Courtney investigated online. We ended up with more sales in one day than ever before."
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
The founders expressed their gratitude by sending Meghan a thank-you note. This led to a budding relationship, and this summer, Meghan agreed to become Cesta's first external investor. While she did not disclose the amount invested or her ownership percentage, Ryder and Fasciano confirmed that Meghan holds a minority stake in the company.
A company dedicated to transforming lives through handcrafted accessories, the brand's handbags are made from organic, vegetable-dyed sisal, not only supporting the local economy but also providing female artisans with consistent, fair-wage opportunities. Each bag takes three to seven days to create, with intricate color-block patterns that highlight the artisans' exceptional skill, raising the price to $750 (Rwf 999,750) and above.
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
Cesta Collective's mission is to empower women and drive sustainable income in Rwanda. The brand's partnership with Meghan Markle, a well-known advocate for social and economic empowerment, is a testament to the impact the company is making in the lives of its artisans.
Markle's investment and involvement with Cesta Collective are part of her broader efforts to support ethical and sustainable businesses that prioritize social impact. In recent years, she has invested in and championed various initiatives that align with her values, including a sustainable travel company, a mental health-focused tech platform, and a clean beauty brand.
[PHOTO: Meghan Markle takes a selfie with children during her visit to Rwanda]
"Meghan's investment in Cesta Collective is more than just a financial transaction," said Fasciano. "She genuinely cares about the work we're doing and the lives we're impacting. Her guidance and expertise have been invaluable as we continue to grow the brand and expand our reach."
The partnership with Meghan Markle comes at a pivotal time for Cesta Collective. The brand has experienced significant growth in recent years, with its handwoven bags gaining popularity among fashion-conscious consumers who value craftsmanship and social impact. The investment from Markle is expected to help the company scale its operations, expand its product line, and further solidify its position as a leading ethical luxury brand.
"Meghan's belief in our mission and her commitment to supporting our work has been truly inspiring," said Ryder. "We're excited to continue collaborating with her to create meaningful change and empower even more women in Rwanda."
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
As Cesta Collective's profile continues to rise, the brand's impact on the lives of its artisans remains at the forefront of its mission. The company's dedication to sustainable, ethical production and its focus on empowering women have resonated with consumers and industry leaders alike, making it a standout example of how luxury brands can drive positive social change.
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
[PHOTO: A bag made by Cesta Collective, the bags are handmade by women in Rwanda, and the finish is made in Italy]
Fashion in Kenya: Wandia Gichuru on Building a Fashion Business in Kenya and Beyond
Gichuru has attended the Stanford Seed Transformation Program, a business leadership programme unlike any other. It’s for daring and determined CEOs and founders who want to increase revenue and scale exponentially
Thirteen years ago, what later became a leading women’s fashion brand in Kenya consisted of several boxes of clothes in Wandia Gichuru’s living room. Vivo Fashion Group, which Gichuru co-founded with a friend, had begun as an online-only enterprise but immediately encountered a major stumbling block: their customers wanted to try on the clothes. “We didn’t have a store, so they just came to my house,” Gichuru recalls. “My daughters were asking, ‘What happened to our living room?‘ I realized this wasn’t going to work.”
Wandia Gichuru, co-founder and CEO of Vivo Fashion Group [Photo Wandia]
Gichuru and her business partner discovered an available space in a Nairobi mall and nervously signed a lease to open their first retail store. It was immediately a hit. Drawn by Vivo’s leisure wear line at affordable prices, women in Nairobi suddenly had a place to go for clothing previously unavailable locally. The original Vivo store soon became two, and then four, and then seven. Today, Vivo has 25 stores across Kenya, Rwanda, and Uganda.
That success was unlikely for several reasons, including that nobody before Gichuru had made women’s clothes in Kenya for Kenyan women widely accessible. Originally an import business, Vivo gradually transformed into a full-on fashion brand that designed and manufactured all of its own clothing.
Along the way, Gichuru discovered that making and selling clothing had a larger purpose, one that now animates her business thinking. “Now my focus, in addition to running Vivo, is to help other entrepreneurs, and especially women entrepreneurs, develop their own businesses,” she says. “We are still struggling in so many ways, but unless people hear or see someone trying, it’s very difficult for them to imagine what’s possible.”
Although you were born in Canada, you consider Kenya your home?
Yes, my dad was studying at McGill University and my mother was teaching in Montreal. They met at a party and ended up getting married, having my elder brother and me in Canada, and then they moved back to Kenya when I was a baby.
Who were your influences growing up?
I ended up going into international development work and I think to some extent that was influenced by my dad. He was a civil servant, working for the part of the government that gave out business licences, and he was interested in economic development.
After I went to university in Canada and then was able to travel a bit and see other parts of the world, I wondered why things at home were so much harder, and why did we struggle to uplift the lives and experiences of people? That has always been the question in the back of my mind and led me into development work.
You worked for several years for the UK’s Department of International Development. What did your job involve?
I was what they called a governance advisor. I looked at mostly bilateral programmes that the UK funded in countries where they were looking to strengthen government systems. You’ve got tens of millions of pounds to put towards a project, so you partner with other governments. I enjoyed it, but I found it a little far removed from seeing how the projects translated to change.
What motivated the change of direction that eventually landed you in the retail world?
I was in my early 40s and I wanted to try something different. I ended up training to become a life coach, got my certification, and then realised that I couldn’t turn it into a business. I found it hard to speak to somebody for an hour and then say, OK, now pay me $200.
I started spending more time dancing and doing various exercise classes, and I realised there was very little available in Kenya to support those activities. You couldn’t buy dance sneakers, for example, they just weren’t available. So, we thought, hey, there’s a gap here in the market. The idea was to create this brand that would be purely online, bring in cool products to do dance and fitness. Within seven or eight months we realised that wasn’t going to work. Everyone would call or email us to say, can I come and try it on?
Different brands that work with VIVO
And your house became the fitting room.
Yes, we didn’t even have offices. We decided to open a physical store and offer more than just the dance and fitness stuff. We wanted to stay close to the original idea, but we ended up picking clothes that everyone just loved because they were super stretchy and comfortable.
We had no idea going in that we were solving a problem, but looking back, it’s kind of obvious. Most clothing sold in Kenya isn’t made in Kenya, it’s all imported. The bulk of that is secondhand but even the new stuff that is available is predominantly designed for a western, Caucasian body type. A lot of Kenyan women would buy clothes and then have to have them modified to fit.
Was that the insight that led you to begin making your own clothing?
The solution was to have stuff made to our specifications, but we couldn’t find factories in Asia that would make small enough quantities. They were like, sure, give us your design, but you have to order 10,000. We wanted to make 50. So, in 2013 we made the decision that we would start making our clothes in Kenya, and that was a game changer.
What did it take to make that happen?
I don’t come from a fashion background. I had to hire pattern makers, tailors, designers, you name it. We had to figure out where to source the fabrics. It was a lot of chaos, a lot of mistakes, very ad hoc in a way. Sometimes I’d hire out of pure desperation – I would literally meet someone for coffee and say, OK, when can you start?
Meanwhile, though, your stores were doing good business.
Our first store did so well that after a few months we opened a second one on the other side of town, and then another, and another. By 2015, we had seven stores and were doing revenue of $1 million a year. But there really was no plan; I didn’t even have a budget. It seems crazy when I think about it now. We were just putting our revenue back into the business and expanding but without any real direction.
So that’s where Seed came in?
At a certain point I was going a little crazy, thinking, I don’t know what I’m doing here, I need help. A friend of mine forwarded me a flyer about Stanford Seed coming to East Africa. I took one look at it and thought this is exactly what I need. What was interesting is that they not only helped me with scaling the business and creating a plan, but they also helped me see that success isn’t just about making profit, it’s also about impact. I came from a development background, and I wanted to be doing more than making clothes and hiring people. Seed was able to help me see how all these things are connected, that by creating opportunities and generating income and growing industries, you are transforming lives.
And then COVID hit.
And then COVID hit, and our revenues dropped 80%. We had 200 staff at the time. Kenya has no welfare system; there is little direct government support to businesses. So, our top priority was keeping our staff paid. But our revenues had disappeared, so what the hell were we going to do? When it became obvious that masks were going to become a key part of everybody’s life, we pivoted and took all our production capacity and started making masks. Most of them were bulk orders from companies that wanted branded masks. In 2020, we made a million masks. We weren’t making any money, but we had revenue, and it saved us.
Then what is the plan post-pandemic?
Fairly recently, I pulled out the transformation plan that we had developed with Seed and dusted it off. We are back on track. We have a really solid board, and a small number of investors, some of whom I met through Seed. And we now have a second business, an online marketplace, which is Shop Zetu.
Your success also led to an unusual opportunity. Tell us about your experience as a judge on the Kenyan version of the American TV show Shark Tank.
When they asked me, I said, look, I have never invested in any business, I’ve only grown my own business. What do I know? But no one else would do it. Women in our culture are shy to be seen as successful, often because they don’t want to show up their husbands. Finally, I said yes because a woman needed to be on that show. If I have to I’ll fake it to make it. I was on the show for two years.
You’ve talked about the importance of purpose, and how that informs what you do. What is most meaningful to you now that you’ve established a level of success?
What I’m proudest of is having proven that local fashion can be a viable business and is an industry with opportunities. Unemployment in Kenya is 40%, and it’s mostly young people who are looking for work. They go to university and then can’t find jobs. I’ve always seen work as tied directly to people’s dignity. If you can’t earn enough income to consistently feed your family and educate your children, your life will not be simple or easy. I’m excited about the opportunity to create employment, not only in Kenya but in other parts of Africa as well.
Wandia Gichuru, co-founder and CEO of Vivo Fashion Group [Photo Wandia]
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